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DILTROIT 

THE CITY OF 
THE STRAIT 



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General Passenger Department 

MiCHIOAN ( TENTR AL 














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DETROIT 



•THE CITY OF THE STRAIT 




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HISTORICAL ,^ ]']]> 

DESCRlf^TIVE^ 



General Passenger Department 

M ichigan ( Centra l 



CHICAGO, igoi 



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Author. 



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37 



/^AND, McNally & Company 

i'niNTERS AND ENGRAVERS 
CHICAGO 




City Hall Square. 



DET^ROIX 

THE CITY OF THE STRAIT. 



America is too often derided for its mushroom growth, 
and, like Philip Doddridge, accused of his youth — a defect 
^which that distinguished divine replied time would remedy. 
■1^ Detroit, the metropolis of Michigan, has, however, a very 
respectable age and a history full of striking adventure and 
picturesqueness. The panorama of its life is a succession of 
striking pictures, accompanied by the martial music of diverse 
nations and the symphonies of varied peaceful industries. 

In the first scene we see three birch-bark canoes breasting 
the steady current of the broad stream, and landing here 
under the broad trees that overhang the bank, and ten white 
men, two of whom are robed in black. These break in pieces 
and throw into the water a great stone idol. It is the first 
incursion of the Christian iconoclasts, for these are the Sul- 
pitian fathers, Galinee and Dollier, and the date is 1670. 



The second scene shows a strange vessel, with broad sails 
and grotesque peak, plowing its way up the broad waters of 
the straits ; a stalwart soldier with flowing locks on the deck ; 
beside him a black-robed, dark-eyed priest ; on the fertile 
■shores, under the virgin forests, groups of aborigines gazing 
with astonishment. The time is 1679 J the soldier is the 
•Chevalier de la Salle ; the priest is the RecoUet father Louis 
Hennepin, and the banner waving above them bears the fleur- 
de-lis of the French King Louis XIV. 

In the next scene upon this broad stage are twenty-five 
birch-bark canoes, some thirty-five feet long, decorated with 
Indian symbols, and manned by fifty soldiers in " bright blue 
•coats and white facings," with four officers, two priests, and 
fifty immigrants. Their long journey through the woods of 
Canada and down the waters of Lake Huron and the St. Clair 
is ending as they near the shore to the music of fife and drum. 
In the prow of the first and largest boat stands a stately 
figure in the rich costume of the French court, with broad 
laced cliapeau and curling locks. It is the Sieur de la Mothe 
Cadillac, who having pointed out to his monarch that the 
strategic key to the Great Lakes and the illimitable region 
beyond was upon this shore, has come with the commission to 
establish here a fort and colony. This is July, 1701. The 



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Capitol J-'ark. 



fort is soon built, and named Pontchartrain, in lienor of the 

French minister. 

Around the stockade gather settlements of the red men, 

their white breth- 
Soon the brave 
her perilous way 
the wilderness, 
Oniaghira, and 
up the lakes to 
join him . A 



soon allied by firm ties to 
ren from beyond the sea. 
wife of the governor makes 
for a thousand miles through 
past the great cataract of 




MicJiigaii Central Station. 

civilized community is established and organized. After 
nearly sixty years of slow but steady growth, Wolfe scales the 
heights of Quebec, and the drapeau blanche of St. Louis gives 
place to the red cross of St. George. The Indians do not 
take kindly to their new masters, and in a few years the great 
chief Pontiac sweeps away in blood Michilimackinac and the 
other British outposts save Detroit, where Major Gladwin and 
his little garrison heroically sustain a siege of fifteen months. 
Wars with the Indians are frequent, but when the colonies 
revolt the British secure them as allies. At different times 
Daniel Boone and Simon Kenton are brought captive from 
5 



Kentucky. The brutal Governor Hamilton is captured at 
Vincennes in 1779 by Colonel Clark, and sent a prisoner to 
Virginia ; but the various expeditions against Detroit fail 
of success, and it is not until 1796 that Captain Porter hoists 
the stars and stripes over the city, a tardy result of the capitu- 
lation of Yorktown. 

After desultory border warfare and the almost total destruc- 
tion of the city by fire in 1805, comes the war of 1812, the fall ■ 
of Mackinaw and the ignominious surrender of Detroit by« 
Hull on the i6th of August. The advance of General Harri- 
son, and Commodore Perry's victory at Put-in-Bay on Lake 




(From Daguerreotype by M. B. Brady, 1850.) 




Erie, compels Proctor and the British garrison to evacuate 
Detroit; and the defeat of Proctor and the death of Tecumseh 
in the battle of the Thames avenges the massacre at the River 
Raisin. 

General Cass, who, as colonel of the Third Ohio, had been 
the active spirit of Hull's advance, and who had broken his 
sword in indignation when his chief surrendered, was now in 
military command as well as the civil governor of the territory. 
In his subsequent career as governor, secretary of war, minis- 
ter to France, and secretary of state. General Cass was not 
only for half a century the foremost tigure of the city of 
Detroit and the State of Michigan, but of the Great Northwest, 
which he "lifted from colonialism into national dignity." No 
statue adorns more worthily than his the great Valhalla of the 
republic, at Washington. 

The bustle of trade and commerce has not since been often 
silenced by the bugle and the drum in the City of the Straits. 
Michigan sent its contingent to the Black Hawk and Mexican 
Wars, and on the 13th of May, 1861, its First Regiment, 
under Col, O. B. Willcox, left for Washington, followed soon 
by the Second under Col. I. B. Richardson, the Fifth under 
Col. H. D. Terry, and the Sixth under Colonel Stockton. From 
that April day in 1861, when the assembled populace in the 



Jampus Martius listened eagerly to the invocation of the aged 
Cass, to the reception of the war-worn veterans in the Michigan 
Central depot in the summer of 1865, Detroit was pervaded 
with the fervid heat of active patriotism. The monument on 
the Campus Martius to the 90,747 Michigan soldiers of the 
war for the suppression of the Rebellion, is a just as well as a 
magnificent testimonial. 

With peace, under the wise practical guidance of Cass, 
after the war .of 1812, came immigration, growth, prosperity, 
and wealth. Detroit had little more than a thousand inhabi- 
tants when a century old. It was still a frontier town. The 
nineteenth century has seen it grow to a stately and 
beautiful city of nearly 300,000, with an extensive commerce 
both by water and by rail; with great and varied manufactures, 
the products of which are sent to every quarter of the globe; 
adorned by art and refined taste, and distinguished also for its 
educational, religious, charitable, and benevolent institutions. 

The traveler enters the city, of course, by the Michigan 
Central, and passes through its elegant and commodious 



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Alichigan Central Station from the platforms. 
8 




The Foot of Woodicard Avenue. 



depot, built in 1S83. It is constructed of brick, with high, 
airy ceilings of carved oak, convenient in all its appointments, 
but without meretricious ornament, and is one of the marked 
features of the city. Extending 182 feet on Third Street, and 
380 feet on Woodbridge Street, it is in the main three stories 
in height, with a massive square tower, 170 feet high, at the 
corner, bearing a large fine clock, the dials of which may be 
seen at considerable distance, standing, as the tower does, at 
the foot of Jefferson Avenue. Passing up this avenue, lined 
by substantial commercial buildings, chiefly of the wholesale 
trade, one soon comes to the corner of Shelby Street and 
stands upon the sight of old Fort Pontchartrain, built by 
Cadillac in 1701. The principal gate, by which Pontiac entered 
when he expected to surprise the garrison, was where the 
Mutual Life Insurance Company building now stands, at the 
corner of Jefferson Avenue and Griswold Street. Three blocks 
up Shelby Street from Jefferson Avenue, at its intersection with 
Fort Street and Lafayette Avenue, stood the old Fort Lernoult, 
built "on the hill" in 1778 and re-named Fort Shelby, in 
9 



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Woodzvard Avenue from Windsor Ferry. 

honor of the gallant governor of Kentucky, after its occupation 
by General Mc Arthur, on the British evacuation in 1813. 

Another block beyond Griswold Street, on Jefferson Avenue, 
we come to Woodward Avenue, a broad, fine avenue, stretch- 
ing northeastward from the river to beyond the city limits. 
Descending rather steeply to the river, at its foot are steamer 
docks and the steam ferry to Windsor, the Canadian city on 
the farther shore. In the other direction its ascent is very 
gradual until reaching its higher level at the Campus Martins. 

Passing up Woodward Avenue, which is the chief artery of 
the city, and divides it into two geographical divisions, the east 
and west, we traverse the principal retail or shopping region. 
The broad avenue is lined by fine stores, making a most cred- 
itable display that is not belied by their elegant wares within. 
At Congress Street we see, a block to the left, the tall struc- 
ture of the Union Trust Company, and just beyond, on the 
right, the broad front of the Russell House. 

Then comes the Campus Martins, the strategic center of 
the city, from which diverge two broad avenues — Michigan on 
10 



the left and Gratiot on the right, running out to and beyond 
the western and northeastern Hmits. Between Fort Street and 
Michigan Avenue, on the left, is the City Hall, a handsome 
building of Amherst sandstone, completed in 1868 at a cost of 
$600,000. Upon this site stood, until 1848, the Michigan 
Central Railroad depot. The City Hall is built in the Italian 
style, four stories high with a Mansard roof, and surmounted 
by a square central tower and flag staff, two hundred feet 
above the ground. The tower contains a fine bell, weighing 
7,670 pounds, and a clock, said to be the largest in the United 
States, the dials of which are illuminated at night. In niches on 
the Woodward Avenue and Griswold Street fronts are statues of 
the Sieurs Cadillac and La Salle, and Fathers Marquette and 
Richard, executed by Julius Melcher. On either side of the 
eastern portico is an old cannon which was on the British fleet of 
Commodore Barclay,captured by Perry in the battle on Lake Erie. 
Directly across Michigan Avenue is the stately jNIajestic Build- 
ing, 211 feet high, shown in the picture on page 3. From its 



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IVie Ci/y Hall. 



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roof a magnificent view 
is obtained of the city 
and surrounding 
country, well worth 
the ascension. 
In front of the 
City tlall, on the 
east side of Wood- 
ward Avenue, is 
the Soldiers' 
Monument, a 
striking and most 
artistic memorial 
^ to the patriotism 

of Michigan. It 
^ -.^ was designed by 

Randolph Rogers 
,'.,,.. „.„ .- of Rome, and 

~ constructed of 

Rhode Island granite, 
with statues of golden 
Soldiers' Monument. bronze cast at Munich, 

the whole costing $70,000. It is 
sixty feet in height, and was unveiled April g, 1872, with 
appropriate ceremonies. On its four sides are medallions of 
Lincoln, Grant, Farragut, and Sherman. On the plinths at 
each corner of the base are statues seven feet high, represent- 
ing the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, and Navy, and higher up 
allegorical figures of Union, Victory, Emancipation, and 
History. The whole is surmounted by a female figure of 
Michigan eleven feet in height, with sword and shield. On 
granite pedestals in front of the facades are four bronze eagles. 
The inscription tells that it is "Erected by the People of 
Michigan in honor of thii: Martyrs who fell and the 
Heroes who fought in defense of Liberty and Union." 
Back from the Soldiers' Monument is the Cadillac Square 
Park, and across Monroe Avenue is the bronze fountain and 
bust of ex-Governor Bagley. Looking down Michigan Avenue, 
12 



on the left, the most conspicuous building is the new Hotel 
Cadillac, a handsome modern structure, on the corner of Row- 
land Street; and on the right, fronting the square, is the Detroit 
Opera House, an elegant stone building capable of seating two 
thousand persons. 

In the Detroit Opera House building, on the Campus 
Martius, is the city ticket office of the Michigan Central, where 
the traveler may purchase railroad and steamship tickets to 
almost any point in the civilized world. By this time his 
attention will have been attracted by the tall skeleton steel 
towers, triangular and quadrangular, upon a single support, 
that he will see at prominent points here and there. These 
towers are from a hundred and fifty to a hundred and seventy- 
five feet high, surmounted by from six to eight electric lights. 
On account of the ingenious novelty of their design they excited 
the deep interest of the French engineer, Tissandier, who 
visited Detroit in 1885, and described them in detail in his 
interesting book Six Mois aux Etats Uiiis. 



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Detroit Opera Home. 




On Gratiot 
Avenue, a block 
to the right of 
Woodward, is the 
Public Library 
and Scientific 
Museum, a hand- 
some and rather 
stately building, 
Public Library. seated back from 

the street, with fine shade trees in front. It now contains 
nearly one hundred thousand volumes, and is admirably con- 
ducted in a most practical and useful manner. Its popularity 
is shown by the annual drawing by its patrons of some hun- 
dred and fifty thousand volumes. Its large and well lighted 
reading room is adorned by pictures, busts, and other articles 
of great historical 
interest to the 
visitor. 

On the corres- 
ponding block to 
the left of Wood- 
ward Avenue is 
the Young Men's 
Christian Associa- 
tion's fine build- 
ing of brown 
sandstone, com- 
pleted in 1SS7 at 
acostof $118,000. 
It is one of the 
most artistic 
structures in the 
city and is well 
supplied with 
every means to 
attract and bene- 
fit the young men 

•^ ^ Masonic Temple. 





Young Men's Christian Association. 

of the metropolis. A railroad branch is located at West 
Detroit and is productive of great good to the numerous railroad 
employes, who are glad to avail themselves of its advantages. 
Two blocks farther we come to Grand Circus Park, occupy- 
ing a square upon either side of Woodward Avenue. Though 
not of large size, it is one of the oldest and most attractive of 
the city parks, and the magnificent old shade trees, close-clipped 
lawns, and splashing fountains, make it a delicious summer 
resting-place. From almost any point one looks down the 
long, leafy vista of some broad, diverging avenue — Washing- 
ton, Bagley, Miami, or Madison — so lined by broad-boughed 
elms and maples, as to give scarcely any indication of the pala- 
tial homes behind them. It is, in fact, to this general prev- 
alence of shade trees and extensive grounds with green lawns 
and brilliant flowers, that Detroit owes one of its chiefest 
charms, a sense of reposeful beauty, of delicious coolness and 
of homely comfort. This will be further appreciated as one 
continues his way out Woodward Avenue, and soon leaves 
behind the region of stores and shops, and finds the way lined 
by elegant and luxurious mansions in various styles of archi- 
tecture, and with that roominess, both of edifice and grounds, 
15 




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Grand Circus Park. 



that indicates, not only abundance of means, but the taste and 
intelligence that fill life with the greatest enjoyment and 
comfort. 

On Woodward Avenue are also located some of the prin- 
cipal churches of the city. On the corner of Adams Avenue, 
opposite the Grand Circus, is the Central M. E. Church, 

the oldest Protestant 
church in the 
city, dat- 
ing from 
territorial 
days. It 
is a hand- 
some stone 
gothic struc- 
ture, com- 
pleted in 1S67, 

with a tall tower 
Washingto7i Avetiue. 






measuring 175 

feet to the top 

of the spire. 

On the cor- 
ner of High 

Street is St. 

John's E p i s- 

copal Church. 

also a stone 

gothic building 

with square 

tower, built in 

1860-61. Just 

beyond, on the 

corner of Wind- 
sor Street, is 

the Woodward 

Avenue Baptist 

Church, con- 
structed in 

1886, of ionic 

stone, at a total 

cost of $133,- 

000, and seating 1,500. A square farther, on the west side of 

the avenue, is the Second Congregational Church. 

Upon oppo- 
site corners of 
Edmund Place 
and W'oodward 
Avenue are two 
of the finest 
church edifices 
— the First 
Congregational 
Unitarian and 
the First Pres- 
byterian — mag- 
Fi7-st Congregational Church. nificent struc- 



Woodivard Avenue Baptist Church. 





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tures of large 
size and of dif- 
ferent styles of 
romanesque ar- 
chitecture. The 
latter has a 
pyramidal cen- 
ter and tine 
clustered tur- 
rets, constructed 
of Lake Supe- 
rior red sand- 
stone, with in- 
terior woodwork 
of antique oak. 
T he church 
scats 1,400 and 



First Presbyterian Church 
the chapel 800, and the cost, including ground, was $165,000. 
A few squares farther out, on the corner of Parsons Street, 
is the handsome brick edifice, with stone facings, of the West- 
minster Presbyterian Church. Nearly opposite on the right, 
may be seen through Martin Place, at the head of which it 
stands, the tall and extensive buildings of Harper Hospital. 
This is one of the most important charitable institutions of 
Detroit, and was founded in 1859 by Walter Harper and 
Nancy Martin, 
his housekeep- 
er, who kept a 
vegetable stall 
in the old mar- 
ket. The orig- 
inal buildings 
were construct- 
ed by the Gov- 
ernment in 1864 
for a military 
hospital, and at 

the close of the Westminster Presbyterian Church. 
19 





Harper Hospital. 

war were turned over to the Society, on condition that it 
would care for the invalid Michigan veterans. The present 
jnany-gabled brick building was completed in 1884, and 
accommodates two hundred and fifty patients. 



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•Grace' Hospital. 



20 




i Senator Palmer's Log Cabin 



Board of Education Build in i;. 



A little farther north on John R. Street, corner of Willis 
Avenue, is the new Grace Hospital, a Homeopathic institution, 
founded by Amos Chaffee, built by Senator James McMillan, 
and richly endowed by John S. Newberry. No condition was 
attached to these munificent gifts, save that the hospital 
should be forever free to those who should be unable to pay 
for its benefits. 

A little farther up Woodward Avenue is a long, low, broad- 
roofed building seen on the left. This is the home of the 
Detroit Athletic Club, a somewhat select and rather high-toned 




Detroit Atlilcti 



organization that has accomplished a great deal for physical 
culture without entering the professional field, though it has 
some famous athletes among its members. 

About a mile beyond this point, Woodward Avenue crosses 
the tracks of the Michigan Central's Belt Line and Bay City 
Division, still north of which is the broad boulevard, a mag- 
nificent macadamized drive that nearly surrounds the city. 

Just on the northern outskirts of the city is Palmer's Old 
Log-cabin Park, unique in its primitive wildness, left almost 
untouched. In this extensive domain is the quaint log cabin 
that for years was the summer home and the favorite work- 
shop of the distinguished senator, who presented it to the city 
with its old-fashioned furniture and equipments. 



The educational facilities of Detroit are excellent, with a 
school population of over 80.000. There are sixty-nine school 
buildings, with a total enrollment of over 39,000, and an 
average daily attendance of 31,092; number of teachers, 898, 
During the last fiscal year the total cost of instruction and 
superintendence was $618,855; maintenance, $180,331; and 
for new buildings and sites, $281,021. 

The observant visitor who traverses the principal avenues 

sees really a good 
share, externally, of 
the city's domestic, 
educational, religious, 
and charitable fea- 
tures, which are re- 
peated a hundredfold 
in other quarters ; but 
its marvelous manu- 
factures, its extensive 
commerce, its large 
wholesale trade and 
other interesting ele- 
ments of the city's 
wealth, prosperity, 
and life are to be seen 
elsewhere. 

Prominent among^ 
the great manufactur- 
ing establishments are 
the works of the Mich- 
Chainber of Commerce. igan and Peninsular 

Car Companies, the Detroit Car Wheel Company, the Detroit 
Steel & Spring Works, the Russel Wheel & Foundry Company, 
the Griffin Car Wheel Company, the Detroit Bridge & Iron 
Works, the Fulton Iron & Engine Works, the Michigan Malle- 
able Iron Company. The output is immense— twenty thousand 
cars of every kind, and ten times as many car wheels having 
been turned out in a single year ; in fact, they run wherever 
in this country rails are laid, and even in foreign lands. 
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Central High ScJwol. 

Detroit is no less distinguished for its immense productions of 
iron and steel castings, engines, machines, architectural iron 
and steel, safes, stoves, copper and brass castings, pins, and 
other metallic articles. The works of a single stove company 
cover ten acres of ground, and these cast-iron domestic furnish- 
ings are known all 
over the world. 
Detroit's manufac- 
ture of chemicals, 
drugs, and phar- 
maceutical prepar- 
ations also exceeds 
that of any other 
city, and the es- 
tablishment of 
Parke, Davis & 
Co. is probably 
the largest in 

the world. The _ . ^, , 
Detroit Club. 




varnish, tobacco, matches, boots and shoes, crackers, and 
other products are also immense in quantity, and distinguished 
for their value and quality. The house of D. M. Ferry & Co., 
whose extensive seed farm is just outside the city limits, is also 
one of the largest of its kind in the world. 

To make a statistical resume, the estimated value of the 
manufactures of Detroit is more than $50,000,000, of which 
the most important are: Railroad cars, $9,000,000; drugs and 
pharmaceutical preparations, $4,500,000; stoves, $4,500,000; 
manufactured tobacco, $4,000,000; varnish, $2,500,000; boots 
and shoes, $2,000,000 ; clothing. $2,000,000 ; lager beer, 
$1,770,000; car wheels, $1,250,000, and car springs, candy, 
malt, leather, bridges, and chairs, $1,000,000 each. The six 
hundred and twenty manufacturing establishments employ 
nearly forty-five thousand persons and pay out more than 
$200,000 weekly, in wages. Its twenty-one banks have more 
than $9,000,000 capital. 

Griswold Street is the Wall Street of Detroit, ils financial 
center. It seems narrow beside Woodward and Jefferson 
avenues, but an eastern visitor has written of it as being "as far 
in advance of State Street in Boston, and Wall Street in New 
York, as our time is of the last century." It is a region of 
banks, insurance companies, lawyers, and offices of lumber, 
mining, manufacturing, and commercial companies, and an air 
of financial solidity pervades the street. 

West Fort Street, like Jefferson Avenue above St. Antoinet 
and Woodward Avenue beyond the Grand Circus, is filled with 

a long succession 
of "private pal- 
aces, overhung 
with great trees, 
and seated amid 
beautiful grounds 
that are parks in 
miniature." Gen- 
eral Alger's house 
is a prominent 
feature between 




General Alger's Residence. 



26 




Fort Street Union Station. 

First and Second streets. On the corner of Second Street is 
Grace Episcopal Church, and on the corner of Third Street is 
the Fort Street Presbyterian Church, a handsome limestone 
gothic edifice, with a graceful spire rising to a height of 230 
feet. Directly opposite is the handsome station occupied by 
the Pere Marquette, Canadian Pacific, Grand Trunk, and 
Wabash railroads, only a block from the Michigan Central. 
The Lake Shore station is at the foot of Brush Street. 

Two miles below the Michigan Central station, the Fort 
Street cars turn down to River Street and run down to Fort 
Wayne, a bastion fortification enclosing sixty-five acres, and 
commanding the river channel with its heavy guns. It was 
built by Gen. M. C. Meigs from 1843 to 1851, and has always 
been the largest and most important fortress in the lake region. 

Going eastward again, we find on Jefferson Avenue, at the 
corner of Hastings Street, a large building whose massive and 
beautiful architecture strikes the eye at once. Detroit has na 
finer edifice, nor one more creditable to its taste and perception 
of the beautiful. This is the Museum of Art, which was 
opened in 1S87, and already contains a large and excellent 
27 




Fort Wayne Barracks. 

exhibit, including the Scripps collection of Old Masters and 
the Frederick Stearns collection of Japanese, Chinese, and 
East Indian Curios, numbering some fifteen thousand pieces. 
Beyond the Museum of Art we pass a long succession of 
palatial private residences with the beautiful and attractive 




Museum of Art, 




Jn Belle Isle Park. 




In Belle Isle Park. 



surroundings we have noticed elsewhere. Crossing the G. T. 
tracks, we come to F.eaufait station, the terminus of the Belt 
Line, and a little way beyond, at the foot of Frontenac Avenue, 
to the long bridge, crossing an arm of the river to Belle Isle. 
This is a superb work of twelve spans, 3,134 feet in length, 
costing $300,000. 

Belle Isle itself is a most delightful park, nearly seven 
hundred acres in extent, lying near the head of the Detroit 
River. It is covered with beautiful hickory, onk, maple, and 




Entrance to Belle Isle from tlic Bridi;c. 

elm trees, with numerous natural lawns, and was laid out as a 
park in 1SS2 by Frederick Law Olmsted, the recognized master 
of the art of landscape architecture. The handsome casinos, 
the boat houses, the drives and walks, the broad canal with its 
numerous gay pleasure boats, and the other artificial features, 
are all in harmony with, and only sure to enhance, the natural 
beauties of the spot. At the upper end of the island is a 
substantial stone lighthouse. 

Just above Belle Isle on the river-side, are the brick tower 
31 




Boat House, Belle Isle Park. 

buildings of the Waterworks, which supply the city with a 
daily average of over thirty-two million gallons, through some 
three hundred and fifty miles of pipe. The extensive grounds, 
with their velvety lawns, shady walks, placid lagoons, splash- 
ing fountains, bright flower-beds, and memorial gateway, form 
by no means the least important of Detroit's many beautiful 
parks. Then comes Windmill Point Lighthouse at the entrance 
to the river, and sweeping around into Lake St. Clan-, we see, 

to the left, Grosse 
Pointe, the fash- 
ionable suburb of 
Detroit. Here 
the wealthier citi- 
zens have their ele- 
gant summer resi- 
dences or country 
homes. These 
with their exten- 
sive and finely 
kept grounds are 
very beautiful, and 

the nine-mile drive 
Casino, Belle Isle Park. 




along the river and the lake out to the Pointe is a delightful 
one, which every visitor to Detroit is glad to take. 

We are now beyond the geographical limits of the City 
of the Straits, but still fully wdthin its active, spirited, over- 
flowing life. Naturally, the youth of Detroit take to water 
like ducks, and the boat clubs, yachting clubs, hunting and 
fishing clubs, and all kinds of outdoor associations are numer- 
ous. This is a feature which must strike the most casual 
observer, standing upon one of the docks near the great 
warehouses, tall elevators, or clanging foundries by the river- 
side, or crossing the straits upon one of the powerful steel 
transfer steamers of the Michigan Central, which carry a whole 
train across in a few minutes. The view is indeed an inspiring 
one, as the river front and harbor is constantly filled with a 
gay and shifting fleet of all varieties of craft, from the great 
lake steamer to the white-sailed yacht and the swiftly darting 
shell-boat. The lover of the picturesque will regret the day 
when the necessities of commerce demand a somewhat more 



1 ■III IlliilHili 


fc 


l^ 




I' ift?^^ 


^^v 


1 ^ 


r^p* 


im^^ 




^r- 


V 




IHH 


Ik' 





T/ie lV\iier7vorks and Park. 




Hurlburt Ale)iwrial Entrance to Waterworks Farfi. 



speedy passage of the river by a tunnel instead of the more 
attractive, though brief, sail on the surface of the water. 

Detroit River, however, forms but the entrance to the 
aquatic field of sport, whose devotees quickly seek the broad 
sheet of Lake St, Clair and the river above with its marshes 
and estuaries. Directly north of Grosse Pointe is Mt. Clem- 
ens, famous for its mineral springs and sanitary baths. It is 
on Clinton River, a few miles from its mouth, and reached 
by the Rapid Railway. Across Lake St. Clair, and passing 
up the U. S. Ship Canal, we come to the St. Clair Flats, 
famous throughout the country for its feathered and finny 

game, its boat and 
club houses, its 
hotels and its 
cooks. The cot- 
tages and other 
buildings are sur- 
rounded by water, 
and a boat is the 




The Old Club. 



34 



■^ 




35 



^^J^^ i 


J 

1. 




^■I^^^^^^^H^ir 




r Ill fiilffiiiiii III 


«^^^f!-— -P=;""'-J»»^*S«=M: ' ' ^ '* 


E8W?^ap5liiaM. 



r//i' Rnslimere. St. Clair Flats. 

only means of communication. Star Island is quite small, 
and it is sometimes difficult to distinguish the limits of 
land and water, but the fame of its fish and frog suppers is as 
. broad as the nation. Yet this is but one star of the galaxy, and 
Detroiters are fond of this kind of astronomy. Still farther 
up the St. Clair River, we pass Harsen's Island, Oak Grove, 
Marine City, with its extensive ship yards, and come to St. 
Clair Springs, noted for its mineral springs, its curative 
baths, and its Oakland House, all of which are deservedly 
popular. And having brought our visitor to so delightful a 
spot, which he or she will leave only with regret, we will do 
well to go no farther. 




Grant's Old House, West Fort Street. 
36 











di&i 



CzV_y //«// Squai-e. 

BRIEF NOTES ABOUT DETROIT. 

Population (1900), 285,704. Death rate, 11.9 per thousand. 

Area, 28.5 square miles. River frontage, g miles. 

Net general debt July r, 1900, of only $3,464,190.12. 

Property owned by the city, $21,684,539.43. 

Assessed valuation in 1899, $216,971,000. 

Public schools, 66. Private schools, colleges, etc., 94. 

Parks, 21; acres, 900. Belle Isle, the finest natural park 
belonging to any American city. 

Paved streets, 260 miles. Sewers, main and lateral, 461 miles. 

Electric street railways, 180 miles. 

Public library, 155,000 volumes. 

Newspapers and periodicals, 80. 

Churches, 190. Banks, 25. 

Bank clearings for year ending July i, 1899, $381,968,114. 

Fire department, 408 men. 

Waterworks plant, costing $6,920,467, with a capacity 
of 103,000,000 gallons per day. 
37 



Municipal lighting plant, with i,Oii arc and 3,900 incan- 
descent lights. 

Largest seed house in the world. 

Largest stove factories in the world. 

Largest chemical laboratory in the world. 

Largest varnish factory in the world. 

Largest parlor and library table factory in the world. 

Second largest pickle and condiment factory in the world. 

Accessibility by suburban electric lines to all the sur- 
rounding towns. 

The most diversified industries of any city in the country. 

More conventions than any other city of the country. 

Largest directory publishing house in the world. 

More than half the capsule factories of the United States are 
located in Detroit. 

Largest car works in America. 

Largest and best equipped river excursion steamer in the 
world. 

Largest paint factory in the United States. 

— Detroit Business Review. 




In Belle Isle Park. 




Ihe MdlL Bells Isle Park. 



PARKS AND RESORTS. 



Belle Isle Park — Jefferson Avenue Street Car Line or 
Detroit, Belle Isle & Windsor Ferry, Fare, round trip, 
lo cents. 

Waterworks Park — Jefferson Avenue Street Car Line. 

Palmer Park — Woodward Avenue Street Car Line. Take 
cars marked " Log Cabin." 

Grand Circus Park — Woodward Avenue Street Car Line. 

Capitol Park — Corner of State and Griswold streets. 

Clark Park — Baker Street Car. 

Cass Park — Fourteenth Avenue Street Car Line. 
Public parks, 8g6 acres ; value $7,000,000. 

Bois Blanc Park — A beautiful island park at the mouth of 
the Detroit River. Take Detroit, Belle Isle & Windsor 
Ferry steamer. Steamer makes two trips daily. 

Tashmoo Park — A celebrated resort in the St. Clair River. 
Take White Star Line steamer. 

Fort Wayne — Fort Street Car Line. 
.39 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
EoARD OF Education — 50 Miami Avenue. 
•City Hall — Woodward Avenue, corner Michigan Avenue. 
County Building — Randolph and Brush streets. 
County Jail — Corner Clinton and Raynor streets. 
Central Police Headquarters — Randolph and Bates 

streets. 
Fire Headquarters — Corner Larned and Wayne streets. 
House of Correction — Corner Alfred and Russell streets. 
Public Library — Gratiot Avenue and Farmer Street. 
Public Lighting Plant — Atwater Street, near Bates Street. 
United States Post Office and Court House — Fort 

and Shelby streets. 

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 

Detroit Opera House — Campus Martins. 
Lyceum Theatre — -Randolph Street, near Champlain Street. 
Whitney's Grand Opera House — 164 Griswold Street. 
Capitol Square Theatre — 198 Griswold Street. 
Wonderland — Campus Martins. 

Detroit Museum of Art — Corner Jefferson Avenue and 
Hastings Street. Jefferson Avenue Street Car Line. 




'M 



^"m 



a-i i 



li^Ji-n «*'*.} ; 



^ f^ 



W IH rt 




Ai->i!ory Detroit Light Guard. 



40 




tions, 
dining 
Rates, 
plan. 



THE HOTELS. 

HOTEL CADILLAC, 
Michigan Ave., 
corner of Wash- 
ington Ave. Has 
300 rooms with 
everymodern con- 
venience, includ- 
ing telephone in 
- -_ ._— .- every room with 

local and long- 
distance connec- 
two new passenger elevators, banquet hall and private 

rooms, caf6, restaurant, and auditorium in connection. 

$3 to $8, American plan ; $2 and upwards, European 

Swart Bros., Proprietors. 




THE RUSSELL HOUSE, 

Woodward Avenue and Cadillac Square. Has 300 rooms, 
with banquet hall, private dining rooms, an artistic and excel- 
lent cafe and restaurant, and a convention hall in connection. 
Rates, $3 to $5, American; $1.50 and upwards, European. 
W. J. Chittenden, Proprietor. 

41 




THE WAYNE HOTEL, 
Jefferson Avenue and Third Street, opposite Michigan Central 
Station, with summer garden and pavilion on river front. 
Accommodates 350. Rates, |2 to $3.50, American; $1 to 
$2.50, European. J R. Hayes, Proprietor. 




■^r'" 




f i 



HOTEL SAINTE 
CLAIRE, 

Randolph Street, 
corner of Monroe 
Avenue. Elegant 
and very comfort- 
able. Accommo- 
dates 250. Has 
convention audi- 
torium in con- 
nection. Rates, 
$2.50 to $3.50, 
American. Wm. 
P. Beyer & Co., 
Proprietors. 



42 




GRISWOLD HOUSE, 



Corner of Griswold Street and Grand River Avenue. Accom- 
modates 400. Rates, |2 to $2.50, American. Postal & Morey, 
Proprietors. 

Hotel Metropole, 122-130 Woodward Avenue. (Accom- 
modates 100.) Rates, $1 to $2, European. Clements & Smith, 
Proprietors. 

Oriental, 60-64 Farrar Street (100), $1 to $1.50, Euro- 
pean. Cafe and baths. Postal & Morey, Proprietors. 

NORMANDIE, 11-23 Congress Street, near Woodward Ave- 
nue (200), $2 to $3 50, American. P. B. Renaud, Manager. 

Du NoRD, 527-531 Woodward Avenue (100), $2, American. 

Barclay, 20-30 Barclay Place (100), $1.50 to $2, American. 

Waldorf, 86 Woodward Avenue, corner Earned Street 
(100), $1.50 to $2. Baths. Chas. Heinicke, Proprietor. 

Franklin, Bates and Earned streets (150), $1.25 to $1.50, 
American. H. H. James & Son, Proprietors. 

Library Park, 46-52 Farrar Street (200), 50 cents to 
$1, European. Beamer «& Frayer, Proprietors. 
43 



Detroit, 14-18 Elizabeth Street, West, near Woodward 
Avenue (100), $1.25 to $1.50, American. Hugh Carr, 
Manager. 

Renaud, 128-130 Grand River Avenue (100), $1.25 to 
$1.50, American. Wilson & Renaud, Proprietors. 

RiCHTER, 11-25 State Street (40), 75 cents to $1.25, Euro- 
pean. Cafe. Louis M. Knauss, Proprietor. 

Richmond, 42-44 Third Street (50), $1 to $1 50, American. 

New Cass, 206-208 River Street (100), $1, American. 

Wabash, Atwater and Brush streets (60), $1.25, American. 

Horseman, Third and River streets (100), $1 to $1.25, 
American. 

Congress, 12-16 East Congress Street (100), $1 to $1.50, 
American; 50 cents to$i, European. F. A. Merritt, Proprietor. 

Boston, 212 Fort Street, W. (50), $1, American. 

Randolph, Randolph and Champlain streets (50), $1.25, 
American. J. C. Bentler, Proprietor. 






'^»l*i.... 



On Lake St. Clair. 



44 



WINDSOR, ONTARIO. 

(OPPOSITE DETROIT.) 

British-American, 2 Sandwich Street (100), $1.50 to 
$2, American plan. 

Manning House, Onellette Avenue (100), §1.50 to $2, 
American plan. 

International, Onellette Avenue (150), $1, American. 




Iichigan Central 1 ransfer Steamer. 




For any information 
desired relative to the train 
service of the Michigan 
Central, rates, routes, sum- 
mer tours, etc. , consult the 
latest folder, or apply to any ticket agent or any of the 



folio 



vvmg passenger representatives. 



WM. H. UNDERWOOD, General Eastern Passenger Agent, 299 Main St.. ..Buffalo 

C. A. CARSCADIN, Traveling Passenger Agent, 299 Main Street Buff.vlo 

S. H. PALMER, Canadian Passenger Agent St. Thojl\.s 

JOSEPH S. HALL, District Passenger Agent, Central Station Detroit 

CHAS. W. MERCER, Traveling Passenger Agent, Central Station Detroit 

L. D. HEUSNER, General Western Passenger Agent, 119 Adams Street Chicago 

WM. J. SEINWERTH, Western Pas.senger Agent, 119 Adams Street CHICAGO 

W. L. WYAND, Northwestern Passenger Agent, 13.5 E. Sixth Street. .St. Paul, Minn. 
H. H. MARLEY, Southwestern Passenger Agent, Union Depot ...KANSAS CiTY, Mo. 
CARLTON C. CRANE, Pacific Coast Agent, 637 Market Street . . San Francisco, Cal. 

F. W. BLANCH, Passenger Agent, 637 Market Street San Francisco, Cal. 

AMOS BURR, Passenger Agent, Stimson Block Los ANGELES, Cal. 

W. C. SEACHREST, Passenger Agent, Sherlock Building Portland, Ore. 




General Passenger and Ticket Agent. 



46 



NIAGARA FALLS 




Michigan Cmisal 

The Niagara Falls Route 



Rand, McNally & Company 
printers and engravers 

CHICAGO 




From the Arch Bridge. 

TO SKE NIAOARA. 

Niagara offers many scenes of marvelous beauty, of great 
variety, and of striking picturesqueness, that one should see 
under the varying conditions of sunlight and shadow, calm 
and storm, and under the silvery moonlight. Every mile of 
Niagara River, from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, especially 
from the Rapids above the Falls to the end of the gorge at 
Lewiston and Queenston, is filled with interesting and charm- 
ing scenes. However long the traveler may linger, new 
beauties and new points of interest will present themselves, 
and the greater will be his appreciation of this wonderful scene. 

He has seen a grand sight who has looked out from Falls 
View, where the Michigan Central trains stop, but let him not 
think he has yet seen Niagara Falls, for the great cataract is 
many-sided, and should be seen from all points. The tourist 
will never know its majestic grandeur until he has stood below 
and seen its flood of waters pour from the very vault of heaven. 
He will never know Niagara's power until he has passed 
5 




From Sister Islands. 



behind its watery veil and felt the buffeting of its prisoned air, 
or stood beside the Whirlpool Rapids and felt the utter im- 
potence of man. He will never know its indescribable beauty 
until he has watched the very center 
of the Horse shoe and wooed the 
spirit of the waters, or wandered in 
the wooded aisles of Goat Island, or 
by the fairy cascades of the Three 
Sisters. He will never understand 
its wonderful voice until he has 
stood at the foot of the Great 
Horseshoe and listened to its thun- 
der, that Eugene Thayer, the fam- 
ous organist, declared was ' ' not a 
roar, but the divinest music on 
earth." 

The banks of the river upon either side of the Falls have 
been reserved by the Ontario and New York State Govern- 
ments as free public parks, so that the expense of a visit to 
Niagara has been shorn 
of exorbitant charges. 
The hotel accommoda- 
tions at Niagara are 
ample, excellent in 
quality, and reasonable 
in price. On the Ameri- 
can side the Tnternational 
and Cataract are open 
from May to about the 
first of November, while 
the Kaltenbach, the Pros- 
pect House, Imperial, 
and other hotels are open 
the year round. 

A visit to the Cave of 
the Winds, with guide 
and dress, costs a dollar, and the similar trip under the Horse- 
shoe Falls, on the Canada side, fifty cents ; the round trip on 




07i Goat Island. 




On Goat Island. 



the inclined railway costs ten cents, 
and upon the Maid of the Mist, 
fifty cents. The toll over the 
new steel arch Foot and Car- 
riage Bridge is ten cents in 
one direction, or fifteen cents 
for the round trip. The rate 
for vehicles is regulated by 
the number of passengers. 
The hack fares at Niagara 
Falls are regulated by law 
and are very reasonable, while 
vans make the tour of the entire 
State Reservation, with the privilege 
of stopping off at any point of interest, for twenty-five cents. 
Besides the Lewiston Branch of the New York Central, an 
electric railway on either side of the river affords splendid 
opportunities to see the river, including the rapids, the falls, 
the whirlpool, and the gorge in detail and to the best advan- 
tage. That on the Canada side runs from Chippawa, on the 
Niagara Division of the Michigan Central, through the Queen 
Victoria Park, past the Horse -shoe Fall, and along the brink of 
the gorge, by the whirlpool, to 
Brock's Monument on Queens- 
ton Heights, where the slope is 
descended to the steamer dock 
at Queenslon. The line is 13^ 
miles long, and the rate from 
Chippawa to Qoeenston forty 
cents, or seventy-five cents for 
the round trip. 

On the American side the 
cars start from the Soldiers' 
Monument at the foot of Falls 
Street and gradually descend 
the gorge just above the Canta- 
liver Bridge. From this point 
to Lewiston the river bank is On Lima Island. 
7 




closely followed but a few feet above the water, passing directly 
by the Whirlpool Rapids, the Whirlpool itself, and the long 
succession of the lower rapids, emerging from the gorge oppo- 
site Queenston Heights. The fare one way is fifty cents, or 
seventy-five cents for the round trip. 

The fare by the Levviston Branch of the New York Central 
is twenty-five cents one way and forty cents for the round trip, 
excepting from June ist to September 30th, when the one-way 
rate is twenty cents, and for the round trip, twenty-five cents. 

A round-trip rate of seventy cents is also made from 
Niagara Falls to Lewiston by the New York Central, return- 
ing via the Gorge route. 

By the Canadian Electric Railway over the Upper Arch 
Bridge to the Horse-shoe Fall and Chippewa, thence along the 
Canadian side at the top of the bluff overlooking the river to 
Queenston, across the lower Suspension Bridge to Lewiston, 
and thence back by the Gorge route on the American side — 
from Niagara Falls and back to starting point the fare is $1.30. 

Bear in mind, however, that the governments of New York 
and Canada have made free forever the shores on both sides 
of the falls themselves and that the finest views are obtainable 
without any e.xtra expense whatever. 




Down the Niagara Gorge. 





n --N^ 



# 



The Rapids dl',<:-c Ain,:ru-a)i Fall. 



THE INFINITE VARIETY OF NIAGARA. 
Light and atmosphere, the magicians that take time to 
show us all the phases of any landscape, are peculiarly impor- 
tant as the interpreters of Niagara. The evening of our first 
day by the Falls will differ greatly from its morning ; neither 
will be quite like the evening or the morning of any other day ; 
and yet some indispensable aids to understanding may be long 
postponed. There must be strongest sunshine to show the 
full glory of the place — the refulgent possibilities of its opaline 
falling sheets, snow-white rising mists, and prismatic bows. 
But only a soft gray light can bring out the local colors of its 
horizontal waters and its woodlands, and only the shadow 
of storm clouds, the vehement temper of some of its rapids. 
Night brings her own revelations — lambent, ineffable in the 
full, and occult, apocalyptic in the dark of the moon. And 
while a powerful wind is needed to raise the clouds from the 
cataract in fullest volume, and to whip the crests of the rapids 
into farthest-flying scud, as long as any wind blows it may 
drive us back from some of the best points of view, drenched 
and blinded by torrents of vapor. 




From the paiJttingby Frank Bromley. 

Even if light and wind never altered at Niagara, it could 
not be seen in a day or a week. It must be studied in detail 
— in minutest detail — as well as in broad pictures. Its wealth 
in idyllic minor delights is as astonishing as its imperial largess 
in dramatic splendors. Its fabric of water, rock, and foliage 
is richly elaborate, as a cathedral's might be, if carved and 
damaskeened all over with intricate patterns and colors, each 
helping to explain the ideals of its builders. One whole side 
of Niagara's charm is unfelt unless every great and little pas- 
sage of its waters is learned by heari:, and every spur and recess 
of its shores, and especially of its islands, is lovingly explored. 

Moreover, the eye alone can not really perceive any high 
beauty of any sort. It needs the help of emotion, and the 
right kind of emotion develops slowly. True sight means the 
deep, delicate, and complete sensations that result, not from 
the shock of surprise, but from the reverent, intelligent sub- 
mittal of sense and soul to the special scheme that the great 
Artifex has wrought and the special influence it exerts. We 
can not see anything in this way if we hurry. Above all, we 
can not see Niagara, the world's wonder, which is not a single 
wonder and yet is a single creation complete in itself — a 
10 




The Dufferin Islands. 

volume of wonders bound compactly together and set apart 
between spacious areas of plain, as though nature had said, 
" Here is a piece of art too fine, too individual, to be built into 
any panorama, to need any environment, except the dignity of 
isolation." Such a volume must indeed be studied page by 
page ; but it must also be read so often that it will leave us 
the memory of a harmonious whole as well as of a thousand 
tine details. 

And the best season for Niagara? Each has its own claim. 
Winter sometimes gives the place an arctic picturesqueness, a 
dazzling semi-immobility, utterly unlike its affluent, multi- 
colored summer aspect; but one could hardly wish to see it 
only in winter, or in winter first of all. It is most gorgeously 
multicolored, of course, when its ravine and its islands com- 
memorate its long-dead Indians by donning the war-paint of 
autumn. And it is most seductively fair in early spring. 
Then, at the beginning of May, when the shrubs are leafing 
and the trees are growing hazy, its islands are the isles of 
paradise. This is the time of the first wild flowers. Spread 
beneath the forest that still admits the sun-floods through its 
canopies, massed in the more open glades, and wreathed along 
the edges of pathways and shores, they fill Goat Island full, 
whitely bank and carpet it — snowy trilliums in myriads, blood- 
roots, dicentras, smilacinas, and spring-beauties, varied by 
11 




Beneath the Forest of the Islands. 

rose-tinted spring-cresses and yellow uvularias, and underlaid 
by drifts of violets. Hardly anywhere else over so large an 
area can these children of May grow in such profusion, for 
even when the sun shines hottest upon them the air is always 
delicately dampened by the spraying floods. Here nature so 
faithfully fosters them that they need not be jealously guarded 
by man. Whoever will may gather them by the armful. 

It is good to see Niagara at this time (May). But it is 
still better to see it when its trees and shrubs and vines are 
in fullest leaf and many of them in blossom. Their value is 
greatest as a setting for the endless series of large and small, 
near and distant water pictures ; and then the temperature 
invites to lingering. The very best time of all is in June. 
12 



II. 



Above the falls the broad river runs between shores so flat 
that one wonders why it never mistakes its course ; and where 
its rapids begin, at the head of Goat Island, it is nearly a mile 
in width. For half a mile these rapids extend along both sides 
of the island, and at its farther end the waters make their 
plunge into the gorge that they have themselves created, cut- 
ting their way backward through the table-land which extends 
from Lake Erie to a point some seven miles south of Lake 
Ontario. They make this plunge as two distinct streams, wifh 
the broad, precipitous face of Goat Island rising between them. 
The American stream falls in an almost straight line ; the 
broader, stronger Canadian stream falls in a boldly recessed 
horseshoe curve. And there is another difference also. Just 
at this place the river-bed makes a right angled turn around 




The Falls from Canada. 

the lifted shoulder of Goat Island ; and the Horseshoe, which 
is doing the real work of excavation, falls into the end of the 
gorge and faces northward, while the American Fall, like 
the island's bluff, faces westward, dropping its waters over the 
side of the gorge into the current that flows down from the 
Horseshoe. 

The wonderful hemicycle that is thus created measures 
almost a full mile from mainland brink to brink.* But the 

* Precisely, it is 5,.3T0 feet, the Canadian Fall measuring about .3,060, 
the face of Goat Island 1,300, and the American Fall 1,060. The narrower 
branch of this fall, between the two islands, is 150 feet in width ; yet at 
Niagara it seems so unimportant that no one has ever given it a name. 
13 



gorge, about one hundred and seventy feet in height above 
the surface of its stream, is less than a quarter of a mile across. 
Its cliffs rise almost sheer from their slanting bases of detritus, 
naked in some spots, in a few defaced by the hand of man, but 
still for the most part clothed with hanging robes of forest. 
At first, just below the falls, they look down upon waters that 
no longer rush and foam, but slip and swing with an oily 
smoothness, exhausted by their daring leap, still too giddy 
from it to flow quite straight, and showing proofs of it in long 
twisting ropes of curdled froth. For nearly two miles their 
lethargy lasts. One may swim in this part of the Niagara 




Whirlpool Rapids from the Bridge. 
14 




IVIiirlpool Rapids from beloiv. 



River, the smallest rowboat need not fear to put out upon it, 
and the Alaid of the Mist pushes past the very foot of the 
American Fall up toward the Horseshoe, until she is wrapped 
in its steamy clouds. This is because, within its gorge, the 
Niagara is the deepest river in the world. Even near the falls 
the distance from its surface to its bottom is greater than the 
distance from its surface to the top of its gorge walls — more 
than two hundred feet ; and down into these depths the falling 
sheets are carried solidly by their tremendous impetus and 
weight, leaving the face of the water almost undisturbed. 
Moreover, the current is relatively slow, because, in the two 
miles below the falls, the slant of the river bed is gentle. 

At the end of these two miles the water visibly rages again. 
In the narrowing, curving gorge it is beaten once more into 
rapids, much deeper and fiercer than those above the falls, and 
gaining somberness from the high walls that enframe them. 
At the end of another mile the channel turns at right angles 
again. But before its waters can turn with it, they dash them- 
selves against the Canadian cliff, and swirl back and around 
in a great elbow-like basin, blindly seeking for the exit. This 
15 



is the famous Whirlpool, and it shows the Niagara in slill 
another mood. Except around its edges, there is no rioting 
and splashing as in the rapids, yet there is no exhaustion as 
near the foot of the falls; instead, a deep, saturnine wrath, 
more terrible in its massive, leaden gyrations than any loud 
passion could be. And when the waters which thus dumbly 
writhe with the pain of their arrested course find the narrow 
outlet at last, their great surge outward and onward is sullen 
like their circlings within the pool. Incredibly swift and 
strong, running at a rate of some forty miles an hour, they 




Outlet of the Whirlpool. 

pile themselves up in the center of the channel, but are not 
boisterous with breakers or combs and jets of spray. These 
soon come again as the channel enlarges a little and the 
immense pressure is relaxed ; and then, three miles below the 
Whirlpool, the throttling of the river ends. Here, near Lewis- 
ton, the gorge itself ends with the limits of the more elevated 
plain through which the river is gradually cutting its backward 
way. The gorge ends, and to right and left, eastward and 
westward, the edge of the high plain stretches off as a bold 
escarpment, showing what used to be the shore-line of Ontario, 
when, a larger lake than it is to-day, it covered the lower flat 
16 



land. And across this flat land for seven miles, until the 
present lake shore is reached, the Niagara, half a mile in 
width, flows sm.oothly and gently — beautiful still, but now 
with a beauty like that of many other rivers. 



III. 

Put magnitude out of your mind when you approach 
Niagara. Think of beauty instead. Think of the most beau- 
tiful things you have ever seen. Expect to see things still 




The Horse-shoe froin 7iear Falls View. 

more beautiful. Unless your senses are benumbed, you shall 
not be disappointed. Then, gradually, truths of great size 
will dawn upon you, and coming at their proper time, they 
will impress you doubly because you will feel them as you 
ought. You will feel them as factors in greatness of beauty, 
not as facts primarily important in themselves. 

Niagara is not more unusual in magnificence than in 
design. Nature intends most of her waterfalls to be seen from 
below. Niagara she exhibits from above. It does not come 
falling into a valley whither our feet are naturally led. It goes 

ir 



curving into a chasm in a plain across which we are forced to 
approach it. Of course it can be seen from below, and there 
alone it reveals the whole of its size and strength. But nature 
made this standpoint just possible of access in order that it 
might complete and emphasize impressions elsewhere gained. 




Entrance to Cave of the Winds. 

We must look down upon Niagara while we are learning most 
of its lessons in regard to the beauties of flowing and falling 
water. 

And when, at the last, making our way to its base, we stand 
there precariously on narrow ledges,^ of rock ; when, almost 
defying nature's prohibitions, we pass behind the thundering 
18 



veil of liquid glass and foam in the Cave of the Winds ; when, 
after sharing all their phases of feeling before they fell and as 
they were falling, we meet its waters again just after they have 
fallen, our little ship challenging them to touch us in so fear- 
less a fashion that again we become their comrades ; when we 
swing off from the edge of their white caldrons, exhausted 




*g^- 



American Falls from Goat Island. 

with emotion like the current that bears us back — then, be- 
cause we have already learned so many other lessons, we are 
able to appreciate the most tremendous of them all. Then we 
have really seen Niagara, because we have felt it ; and we have 
felt it because we have felt with it. Nature made no mistake 
in designing this cataract. With waters so mighty and sa 
19 




TJie Horse-sJwe Fall froin Goat Island. 

varied, the logical plan, the artistic plan, was to lead through 
lesser toward greater effects. Thus the greatest win the 
sublimity of the inevitable ; and the impression made by their 
fearful splendors is enhanced by the way in which they are 
hedged about with obstacles and are briefly, dramatically shown. 
****** 
VI. 

In order that the high charm of mystery may not lack in 
the sum of its attractions, Niagara keeps a few things inacces- 
sible — the center of the Horse-shoe Fall, for instance, and 



some of the smaller islands. But in many places it admits us 
close to very tremendous sights. At Prospect Point we stand 
only a couple of feet above the American stream, just where it 
makes its smooth downward curve. We might touch it with 
our hand as it bends, solid and glassy, over the long lip of 
rock. We can lean on the rails and note how soon its 
polished surface breaks into silvery fragments, powders into 
glistening dust ; and far beneath we can see the frosty mass 
strike the black boulders and, over and between them, flow off 
as frosted torrents into the dark-green flood of the gorge. 




T/ie Horse- s]ioe Fall from Canada. 

We can also look directly across the descending curtain of 
water. So, again, we can look from the edge of Luna Island, 
on the other side of the fall; and here, if we face about, we 
are close to the narrower stream which divides Luna from 
Goat Island and forms the roof of the Cave of the Winds. 
Each change of place, changing the angle of vision, reveals a 
different effect in the falling waters, all their effects depending, 
of course, upon the way they receive and reflect and refract 
the light. Nature could have made no better place than 
21 



Luna Island to show us what water does and how it appears 
Avhen it falls in great volumes and is seen very near at 
hand ; for what its surface does not reveal to us, we learn at 
the foot of this fall in the Cave of the Winds. Of all the 
accessible spots in the world this must be the most remarkable, 
excepting, perhaps, one within the crater of an active volcano. 
Such testimonies as these do not need to be repeated. 
The Canadian Fall offers us new ones. It is not a teacher of 
beautiful details of fact. The grandest part of Niagara, it is, 
befittingly, the high priest of beautiful mysteries. It shows 
the poetic grandeur of vast falling waters that can not be 
closely approached. 




The Great Power House. 

Even the ledges to which we descend from Goat Island do 
not really make the Horseshoe accessible. They cross n^' 
part of the main Canadian stream, but merely a wide boi^cr 
of it where its current is shallow. Beyond, its bold swec^ 
prevents us from looking directly across its curtain, and for- 
bids us to see deep into the great recess that varies its curve 
midway. The brow of this central arc glows with the richest 
of all Niagara's varied colors. Here the falling sheet is ex- 
ceptionally deep. Therefore, as it curves, it shows a stretch 
of palpitant, vivid green which is repeated at no other point, 
and it preserves its smoothness far below the verge where 
shallower currents almost immediately break. No one could 
wish that this great royal jewel, this immense and living 
emerald, might be approached and analyzed. It is rightly set 
22 




Tlie Horse-shoe from Goat Island. 

in the way that the great Artifex has chosen — ardent, im- 
mutable, and forever aloof, as on the crest of the walls of 
heaven. 

Cross now to the Canadian shore. The spot where Table 
Rock broke off (about fifty years ago) puts us more nearly in 
front of the Horseshoe. Here, unless the vapors blow too 
thickly around us, we get the most astounding impression that 
Niagara gives, excepting those that will come at the bottom of 
the gorge; and even more than any of these it satisfies the 
sense of beauty. Here we can almost see into the central 
arcanum of the irregular curve. We could see into it, and we 
imagine that we could see through it into something unimagin- 
able beyond it, if only the clouds that it generates would cease 
their billowing. But, blazing white and iris-spanned if the 
sun shines, pearly white when the sky is gray, they never do 
cease, rolling upward and outward, lower or higher, rhythmical, 
mutable, but immortal. No rocky fangs show at the foot of 
this great middle current. Below are only breakers of foam, 
23 



flowing off in a river of foam, as above are cumuli of snow and 
then of mist, and, still higher, streamers of smoke, of steam, 
of gossamer. Behind these is a cliff of diamonds; in front is 
an aura of rainbows; and dominating the whole there gleams 
through the white translucencies the mobile adamant of the 
emerald brink. 

Try as we will, wait as we may, even here we can not see 
into the heart of Niagara. But here we can see it beat, and 
the organ peal of its beating fills our ears. We are wrapped 
in soft splendors, soft thunders, until the senses blend their 
testimonies. Sights and sounds, things motionless and mov- 
ing, can not be separated, and cur own being is lost in their 
illimitable rapture. No other sensation wholly physical in its 
origin can be at once as overpowering and as enchanting as 
this one. And although we know that its origin is physical, 
is terrestrial, we can not grasp the fact; the beauty that we are 
feeling is too different from any that we have ever felt before. 
It is a transfiguring of the familiar things of earth into the 
imagined things of heaven. To the eye it is a revelation of 
the divine possibilities of light and color, form, movement, and 
sound ; and to the mind it is an allegory cf power and purity 
in their supreme and perfect essence. If there are w^alls to the 
city celestial, built of opal, emerald, and some vast auroral 
whiteness for which we have no mortal term, and bridged for 

the feet of angels with 
arches of the seven 
pure colors, the gate- 
way through them 
must look like the 
heart of Niagara. It 
can not be more im- 
mense, more mystical, 
more sacredly re- 
splendent. It can not 
be more aerial or more 
everlasting. 



Under the Search-light 




VIII. 

At Niagara the existence of the Great Lakes benefits the 
eye as well as the imagination. If the falls were fed by rivers, 
their volume, which now varies very little, would conspicuously 
wax and wane with the changing seasons. Again, new-born 
river-waters would be thickened and discolored with sediment 
and sand. Niagara's are strained to an exquisite purity by 
their sojourn in the Western reservoirs, and to this purity they 
owe their exquisite variety of color. 

To find their blues we must look, of course, above Goat 
Island, where the sky is reflected in smooth if quickly flowing 




The Horseshoe from Inspiraticn Point. 

currents. But every other tint and tone that water can take 
is visible in or near the falls themselves. In the quieter parts 
of the gorge we find- a very dark, strong green, while in its 
rapids all shades of green and gray and white are blended. 
The shallower rapids above the falls are less strongly colored, 
a beautiful light green predominating between the pale-gray 
swirls and the snowy crests of foam — semi-opaque, like the 

25 



stone called aqua-marine, because infused with countless air- 
bubbles, yet deliciously fresh and bright. The tense, smooth 
slant of water at the margin of the American Fall is not deep 
enough to be green. In the sunshine it is a clear amber, and 
when shadowed, a brown that is darker, yet just as pure. But 
wherever the Canadian Fall is visible its green crest is con- 
spicuous. Far down-stream, nearly two miles away, where 
the railroad bridge crosses the gorge, it shows like a little 
emerald strung on a narrow band of pearl. Its color is not 
quite like that of an emerald, although the term must be used 
because no other is more accurate. It is a purer color, and 
cooler, with less of yellow in it — more pure, more cool, and at 
the same time more brilliant than any color that sea-water 
takes even in a breaking wave, or that man has produced in 
any substance whatsoever. At this place, we are told, the 
current must be twenty feet deep, and its color is so intense 
and so clear because, while the light is reflected from its 
curving surface, it also filters through so great a mass of ab- 
solutely limpid water. It always quivers, this bright-green 
stretch, yet somehow it always seems as solid as stone, smoothly 
polished for the most part, but, when a low sun strikes across 
it, a little roughened, fretted. That this is water, and that 
the thinnest smoke above it is water also, who can believe ? 
In other places at Niagara we ask the same question again. 
From a distance the American Fall looks quite straight. 
When we stand beside it we see that its line curves inward and 
outward, throwing the falling sheet into bastion-like sweeps. 
As we gaze down upon these, every change in the angle of 
vision and in the strength and direction of the light gives a 
new effect. The one thing that we never seem to see, below 
the smooth brink, is water. Very often the whole swift prec- 
ipice shows as a myriad million inch-thick cubes of clearest 
glass or ice or solidified light, falling in an envelop of starry 
spangles. Again, it seems all diamond-like or pearl-like, or 
like a flood of flaked silver, shivered crystal, or faceted ingots 
of palest amber. It is never to be exhausted in its variations. 
It is never to be described. Only, one can always say, it is 
protean, it is most lovely, and it is not water. 



riflMtt^^^..^Bu^ \-mtt, iiMi -rn '. ^_^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 


^^: - . . 


^-.#'#4« 


■^, — ..^.g„~^ " C-dl^Lar 


L _„ ii 




^■f^HHj^ ' "^ ■<, . ^.. .- ''"^^'^^ 



77/6' Atnerican Fall frot)i Canada. 

Then, as we look across the precipice, it may be milky in 
places, or transparent, or translucent. But where its mass 
falls thickly it is all soft and white — softer than anything else 
in the world. It does not resemble a flood of fleece or of 
down, although it suggests such a flood. It is more like a 
crumbling avalanche, immense and gently blown, of smallest 
snowflakes ; but, again, it is not quite like this. Now we see 
that, even apart from its main curves, no portion of the swiftly 
moving wall is flat. It is all delicately fissured and furrowed, 
by the broken edges of the rock over which it falls, into the 
suggestion of fluted buttresses, half-columns, pilasters. And 
the whiteness of these is not quite white. Nor is it consistently 
iridescent or opalescent. Very faintly, elusively, it is tinged 
with tremulous stripes and strands of pearly gray, of vaguest 
straw, shell-pink, lavender, and green — inconceivably ethereal 
hues, shy ghosts of earthly colors, abashed and deflowered, 
we feel, by definite naming with earthly names. They seem 
hardly to tinge the whiteness ; rather, to float over it as a misty 
bloom. We are loath to turn our eyes from them, fearing they 
may never show again. Yet they are as real as the keen 
emerald of the Horseshoe. 

— Mrs. Schuyler Van Rensselaer in The Century. 
27 




Geological Section of Niagara falls. 



THE RECORD OF THE ROCKS. 

When one has recovered from the first emotional effects of 
the grand spectacle of Niagara Falls, and has realized some- 
what of its unique combination of beauty, majesty, and power, 
the spirit of inquiry is aroused and excited the more one sees 
the region in detail. One appreciates that Niagara is more 
than a spectacle ; that it is a wonderful illustration of the 
evolution and operation of forces that have been working since 
the world's day-dawn ; that the precipitous cliffs of the deep 
caiion show the edges of the leaves of the great stone-book 
of nature that, unfolded and rightly interpreted, reveal the 
history of millions of years of the past, before man appeared 
upon the earth. One invariably asks why and how came this 
great cataract, the greatest natural wonder of the world? 
What is the history of this great river or strait ? What the 
story of this deep and narrow gorge it has carved out of the 
rocks? It should be more interesting than any tale of unreal 
personages, and of imagined events ; but here the barest out- 
line must suffice of a history of seons that requires a volume for 
adequate elucidation. 

The facts and the forces of nature are nicely balanced. Our 
standards are two-fold— absolute and relative. Man is proud, 
above all things, of his own existence and powers. He stands 
at the foot of Niagara or of Mt. Everest and feels his puny 
six feet dwarfed into utter insignificance ; yet on a six-foot 
globe a grain of sand will represent the mountain, and this 
paper is thicker in comparison than the height of the great 
cataract. So level is the watershed of the great lakes that it 
would take but little tilting of the saucer to spill the contents 
in any direction. 

Niagara is geologically young. It had no existence in the 
early da3^s when Lakes Michigan, Superior, and Huron, 
smaller than they now are, poured their waters out to the 
north or eastward. Lake Erie was not, and there was little, 
if anything, of what is now Lake Ontario. Then came 
the glacial period, when the great ice sheet of the north, 
thousands of feet thick, came down even as far as the Ohio 
River, carving new channels and plowing out Superior, 



Huron, and Michigan to greater depths and extent. But the 
south winds rallied and drove back the bold invader, slowly 
but surely, never since to return from its Greenland fastnesses. 
These three great lakes were filled again as the ice field 
melted and receded to the northeast, still covering and blocking 
the valleys of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence. They found 




Ainericaji Fall Jrom below Goat Jsland. 

their outlet by the valley of the Trent into Lake Ontario 
(Iroquois, the geologists term the glacial lake), and thence to 
the sea through the Mohawk and Hudson. It was but a 
feeble stream that ran from the little lake at the eastern end 
30 



of Erie down to Iroquois, tumbling over the escarpment or 
beach near St. David's, west of Queenston. 

Some thousands of years later the St. Lawrence ran un- 
hindered to the sea, and lowered the level of Ontario until its 
waters no longer sought the Mohawk. The slow and gradual 
tilting of the strata, still going on, closed the outlet of the 
Trent, and turned the waters of the great lakes southward, 
extending Lake Huron and. opening a new channel through 
Lake St, Clair and Detroit River into Lake Erie. The 
emerald flood of gem-like purity, leaving its sediment in the 
lake basins, poured over the escarpment of the old Ontario 
shore, perhaps a greater Niagara than we look upon to-day. 
Not, however, at St. David's, as before the glacial period, 
but by the new course it had cut out, and through which it 
now flows. You can go down to the Whirlpool to-day and 
see at its northern side where the old channel was cut through 
the rocky walls, and is now filled with detritus. 

How long has Niagara been carving out the gorge to the 
present falls ; how rapidly is the recession going on, and 
what and when will the end be, are questions that spring 
involuntarily to the minds and the lips of observers. Scientists 
have closely studied these questions, from Prof. James Hall 
and Sir Charles Lyell to Prof. G. K. Gilbert, the greatest 
living authority upon the glacial period, resulting in deeper 
knowledge and greater accuracy. We can not, however, speak 
of geologic as of historic years, but it is believed that ten 
thousand years may cover the period of the excavation of the 
present gorge, while before the long ages of the ice drift there 
was probably a pre-glacial Niagara. The careful measure- 
ments made for sixty years past show a retrocession of about 
five hundred feet in a century. 

To understand the processes and methods by which the 
rocky cliff has been worn away, one should visit the Cave 
of the Winds, feel the buffetings of wind and water, so 
vividly described by Professor Tyndall, observe how they 
have hollowed out this cave from the inferior strata, followed 
by the fall of the massive limestone above, fragments of 
which are strewn along the talus of the cliffs. It is only after 
31 



a personal experience of this kind and visits to the different 
parts of the falls, and to the Whirlpool Rapids, that one 
begins to realize the weight and the power of the fifteen 
million cubic feet that pass over the falls every minute. 

The accompanying diagram gives an excellent idea of the 
geological structure of Niagara, and shows how the superior 
strata of hard limestone, spared by the falls themselves, in 
large degree, is undermined until it falls as Table Rock on 
the Canada side fell.* It also shows how the fragments of 
rock at the bottom of the water are used to grind out the 
massive rock as we can see in the " pot holes " of smaller and 
more familiar streams. Professor Shaler aptly compares the 
process to "a great auger boring away upon some soft 
material, the tool while turning being drawn slowly across the 
surface. In the similitude, the whirling waters at the base 
of the cascade, with their armament of stones, represent the 
auger, and the wide field of strata which have been carved, 
the material which is bored by the moving tool." 

At the present rate of recession the falls will have moved 
southward about a mile in the next thousand years, and as the 
dip of the strata is also southward, the height of the cataract 
will then be considerably diminished and the descent of the 
rapids above increased to the same extent. As, however, we 
have now learned to put some of this tremendous power in 
harness, and transmit it electrically to a distance, it is quite 
possible that this and other artificial means may be used to 
ultimately preserve it and avoid its draining of Lake Erie. 



*In the picture on page 30 the large rock called the " Rock of 
Ages " is a fragment of the massive Niagara limestone fallen from 
above. In the picture of the gorge, on page 14, the Niagara lime- 
stone may be followed at the top and the bed of Medina sandstone 
along the upper edge of the talus. 




NIAGARA. 
Proud swaying pendant of a crystal chain, 

On fair Columbia's rich and bounteous breast. 
With beaded lakes that necklace-like retain 

Heaven's stainless blue with golden sunlight blest! 
"What other land can boast a gem so bright! 

With colors born of sun and driven spray— 
A brooch of glory, amulet of might, 

Where all the irised beauties softly stray. 
Ay, more— God's living voice, Niagara thou! 

Proclaiming wide the anthem of the free; 
The starry sky the crown upon thy brow, 

Thy ceaseless chant a song of Liberty. 
But this thy birthright, this thy sweetest dower, 

Yon arching rainbow— Love still spanning Power. 
— IValiace Bruce. 



NIAGARA. 

Majestic torrent, God hath set His seal 

Of beauty, might, and grandeur on thy brow. 

For signs of these to see, and hear, and feel,— 
Beneath His shining sky, transcendent thou ! 

— ff';//. C. Richards. 

The thoughts are strange that crowd into my brain 

While I look upward to thee. It would seem 

As if God power'd thee from His " hollow hand " 

And hung His bow upon thine awful front, 

And spoke in that loud voice which seem'd to Him 

Who dwelt in Patmos for his Saviour's sake 

The sound of many waters, and had bade 

Thsy flood to chronicle the ages back 

And notch His cent'ries in the eternal rocks. 

—J. G. C. Braitiard, 



I dreamt not I should wander here 

In musing awe ; should tread the wondrous world. 

See all its store of inland waters hurled 

In one vast volume down Niagara's steep. 

Or calm behold them, in transparent sleep 

Where the blue hills of old Toronto shed 

Their evening shadow o'er Ontario's bed. 

—Moore. 



The walk about Goat Island at Niagara Falls is probably- 
unsurpassed in the world for wonder and beauty. 

— Charles Dudley Warner. 



To paint the glories that come and go upon the falling, 
rushing waters, the artist must dip his brush in the rainbow, 
and when he has done his best he will not be believed by 
those who have not seen his subject with their own eyes. 

— Art Journal. 

Days should be spent here in deep and happy seclusion, 
protected from the burning heat of the sun and regaled by 
lovely scenes of Nature, and the music of the sweetest waters, 
and in fellowship, at will, with the mighty Falls. Long, long 
I stayed, but all time was too short. I went, and I returned, 
and knew not how to go ! 

— Rev. Andrew Reed. 



»fe 



%■ 




The pure beauty of elegance and grace is the grand char- 
acteristic of the Falls. It is supremely artistic, a harmony, a 
masterpiece. The lower half of the watery wall is shrouded 
in the steam of the boiling gulf — a veil never rent or lifted. 
At its core this eternal cloud seems fixed and still with excess 
of motion — still and intensely white. 

— Henry James, Jr. , in Portraits of Places. 



These distinctive qualities — the great variety of the indige- 
nous perennials and annuals, the rare beauty of the old woods, 
35 



and the exceeding loveliness of the rock foliage — I believe to 
be the direct effect of the Falls, and as much a part of its 
majesty as the mist-cloud and the rainbow. 

— Frederick Law 01 ni stead. 





I think, with tenderness, of all the lives that opened so 
fairly there, the hopes that reign in the glad young hearts, the 
measureless tide of joy that ebbs and flows with the arriving 
and departing trains. Elsewhere there are carking cares of 
business and of fashions, there are age and sorrow and heart- 
break, but here only youth, faith, rapture. 

— W. D. Howells in Their Wedding Journey. 
36 



When the real energies of Niagara have been recognized 
and the relation between those energies and the might of 
terrestrial gravity is understood, the mind must be awed by 
the stupendous significance of Niagara. 

— Richard A. Proctor. 



The sylvan perfume, the gayety of the sunshine, the mild- 
ness of the breeze that stirred the leaves overhead, and the 
bird-singing that made itself felt amid the roar of the rapids, 
and the solemn, incessant plunge of the cataract, moved their 
hearts and made them children with the boy and the girl who 
stood beside them — who stood for a moment and then broke 
into joyful wonder. 

— W. D. Howells in Niagara Revisited. 



MY LAST DAY AT NIAGARA. 
I sat upon Table Rock, and felt as if suspended in the 
open air. Never before had my mind been in such perfect 
unison with the scene. There were intervals, when I was 
conscious of nothing but the great river, rolling calmly into 
the abyss, rather descending than precipitating itself, and 
acquiring tenfold majesty from its unhurried motion. It came, 
like the march of Destiny. It was not taken by surprise, but 
seemed to have anticipated, in all its course through the broad 
lakes, that it must pour their collected waters down this height. 
The perfect foam of the river, after its descent, and the ever- 
varying shapes of mist, rising up, to become clouds in the 
sky, would be the very picture of confusion, were it merely 
transient, like the rage of a tempest. But when the beholder 
has stood awhile, and perceived no lull in the storm, and con- 
siders that the vapor and the foam are as everlasting as the 
rocks which produce them, all this turmoil assumes a sort of 
calmness. It soothes, while it awes the mind. 

— Nathaniel Hawthorne. 
37 



MAP OF 

W^IAGARA FALLS 

AND VICINITY 
SHOWING ROUTE OF THE 

jy\ lCHIGAN C ENTKAL 

" The Niagara Falls RoKte." 








OF STATE RESERVATION AT NIA<i»HA 



THE M.-N. 00., BUFFALO, N. Y. 



ONT. 



GEN. PRIDEAUX'S LANDING 



'FT.NIAGARA ^^' 

GARRISONED U.S. FT. 
TRADING POST BY LA SALLE, 167S-A FT, BY' 

iDE NONVILLE.1G87- ABANDONED, 1 688 -REBUILT.1 725 
JCAPTURED BY THE BRITISH, DEC, 19,1813 

Wyoungstown NlA.P OF 



I BURNT BY THE BRITISH 1813 



:) 



HISTORIC NIAGARA 

.SHOWING THE PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST 
IN CONNECTION WITH 









Q^EENSTowN ;^/6o°'>/m\s>:L 



^, ^V^V^^*'^ VICINITY 






.k^^'^X 







WHITEHAVEN 

P,rM^ATMONUMENTd 

GRAND ISL. 

17,384.ACRES 




FORT ERIE 

CAPTURED BY THE AMERICANS JULY 3, 181t ►,, 
...c=,^^J!5'!i9*'iS WERE BESEIGED HERE AUgViSMI 
AMERICANS MADE A SUCCESSFUL SORTIE, SEP.17,1814 





Z^^CK R0CKVt»*° 
v^viLL AGE OF BLACK ROCK 
GEN.ALEXSMYTH , 

OLLECTED AN ARMY / 
HERE TO INVADE — ' 
CANADA. Ifl'I'S' 
' FT. PORTER 

;w AMSTERDAM 
AFTERWARDS^^ 
, BUFFALO^ 
BURNT BY/rflE 
R^K>|,I813 




INTERNATIONAL HOTEL. 

This is one of the largest as well as one of the oldest and 
best-known hotels at Niagara Falls, located on the corner of 
Main and Falls streets, with a frontage and tennis court on 
the State Reservation. It accommodates 500 guests. Rates, 
per day, $4 up; per week, $17.50 and upwards; American 
plan. S A. Greenwood, Manager. 




CATARACT HOUoE 

Located corner of Main and Bridge streets, adjoining the 
State Reservation along the American Rapids, opposite Goat 
Island. Rooms en suite, with bath. Accommodates 500 
guests. "^Rates, §3.50, $4.50, and $5.50 per day on the Amer- 
ican plan ; $2 and upwards. European plan. Special weekly 
and monthly rates. R. R. Simpson, Manager. 
41 • 




PROSPECT HOUSE 

Is pleasantly located on high ground at the junction of Jeffer- 
son Avenue and Second Street, near the State Reservation. 
Accommodates 150 guests. 
Rates, $3 to $5.50 per day on 
the American plan. Rooms 
single or en suite. Separate 
dining-room table for each 
room. D. Isaacs, Proprietor. 





\ 


i^. 




1' f 


4 


1 * 









HOTEL IMPERIAL 



On Falls Street, corner of Second, between the railroad station 
and the Falls. Elegant apartments en suite, with bath. 
Accommodates 400 guests. Rates, $2.50 per day; $14 per 
week and upwards. C. N. Owen, Proprietor. 



42 





"""^^^^ ^fpsx^^.-^^II „ s 



pyiispr^" m 



THE KALTENBACH — Is a quiet, hunie-iiKe huici, noted for its 
cuisine and cellar. It is located at 24 Buffalo Street, between 
Main and Second streets, fronting upon the State Reservation. 
It accommodates fifty guests. Rates, $3 per day, American 
plan. A. Kaltenbach, Proprietor. 




THE TOWER HOTEL — Is on River Way, fronting on the State 
Reservation. The tower affords a magnificent outlook over 
the falls and rapids. Accommodates 150 guests. Rates, $2 to 
$3, American. L. A. Boore, Proprietor. 

43 




COLUMBIA HOTEL, 

Located corner Niagara and First streets. Entirely new, built 
of brick, with all modern improvements. Electric lighted and 
call bells, steam heated and other conveniences. Accommo- 
dates 150. Rates $2.50 per day and upwards. Weekly rates 
upon application. Wm. G. White, Manager. 





THE TEMPERANCE HOUSE, 



Quiet and pleasantly located, opposite Michigan Central 
Station, Second Street. Rates, $1.50 and $2 per day. Livery 
connection with house. H. Hubbs, Proprietor. 

44 



Location. Capacity, 

NIAGARA FALLS HOUSE, 338 Main St.-Eobt. Furglson .. 75 

NIAGARA HOUSE, 412 Main Street 75 

HARVEY HOUSE, 3:27 Tliird Street-J. Maloney 8J 2, 

SALT'S NEW HOTEL, 355 Second Street— S.J. Tobey 75 1 

MALEY HOUSE, 7<:3 Third Street— V.Neidliardt 40 

UNITED STATES HOTEL, Falls Street-A. Rickert 50 

COSMOPOLITAN, 223 Niagara- W. J. Callahan. 65 

ATL ANTIQUE, Main and Niagara— S. K. Deitrick 75 2 

COLONADE HOTEL, 221 Niagara— Cannavan & Donnelly 10 1 

EUROPEAN HOTEL. 349 River Way— P. F. Nassoiy 50 2 

FALLS HOTEL, 31.! Main Street— Mrs. C. R. Whiting 40 

HOTEL SCHWARTZ, 16 Falls Street-D. W. Schwartz 30 

STATE PARK HOTEL, Falls Street-Jas. W. Canavan 55 

WALKER HOUSE, Third Street 45 1 

HOTEL NASSAU, Falls Street-H. C. Fuclis.. ' 50 

JNiiVV i'OKK HOTEL, River Way— L. Sussman 25 

THE OAK. Falls Street-L. M. Gillis 85 

THE WAYNE. Second Street, opposite N. Y. C— J. Roland.. 25 

BOARDING HOUSE, First Street-Misa M.Conway . 20 

BOARDING HOUSE, Mrs. A. Murray 20 

CENTRAL, 335TMrd Street— J. Riley 40 

Cui lAui:-, Secunu tetreet— Mrs. Morse so 



Rates per 
Day. 

82,00 

2.00 

,00 to 3.00 

.50 to 2.50 

1.50 

2.00 

2.00 

1.00 to 2.50 

,50 to 2.00 

.00 to 2.50 

2.00 

(e) 2.00 

3.00 

,50 to 2.00 

3.00 

1.50 

(e) 1.00 

to 2.50 

1.50 



1.50 
1.25 




RIVER VIEW. 



Niagara Falls Centre P. O., Victoria Tark Station. Delight- 
ful location, overlooking falls and river. Convenient to steam 
and electric roads. |i to $2, European plan ; meals 50 cents. 
j J. Norman Lewis, Manager. 

I 45 



NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO. 

Name. Proprietor. Rooms. , p 

HOTEL SAVOY James Dickinson.. 40 $2.50lo3.50 

ROSLI HOTEL William Klaus £5 2.00 up 

WINDSOR HOTEL ....James Keating .... 50 2.00to3.50 

AMERICAN HOTEL... William Ward 35 1.50to2.50 

COLUiMBIA HOTEL. ..Charles Crozier.... 20 1.50to2.00 

IMPERIAL HOTEL.... James Herendeen. 25 1.50 up 

ARLINGTON HOTEL. Rich. McCarr 51 2.00 up 



Rates Weekly. 

$14.00 
No Quotation 



NIAGARA FALLS CENTRE, ONTARIO. 
(Victoria Park Station.) 




HOTEL LAFAYETTE 



Is at the Canada end of the new steel arch bridge and com- 
mands a view of both falls. All modern improvements, newly 
added verandas, and roof garden. Accommodates 70. Rates, 
$3, American plan. Michigan Central Station, Victoria Park. 
H. Williams, Proprietor. 

r, „„-t„ Rates per 

Capacity. ^^^^ 

VICTORIA HALL G.H.Young. 

PARK SIDE INN James O'Rourke. 

QUEEN'S PARK HOTEL Thomas King 

4G 



$2.00-3.00 
2.00 
1.50-2.00 



Week. 
«T-10 



NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, ONTARIO. 




THE QUEEN'S ROYAL. 

A quiet, delightful summer resort (300 guests), fronting 
on Lake Ontario at the mouth of the Niagara River, in the 
midst of picturesque and historic scenes and with excellent 
facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, riding and driving, 
golf, tennis, it is but fourteen miles from Niagara Falls and 
thirty-five from Buffalo, by the Michigan Central's Niagara 
Division, and thirty miles from Toronto across the lake by 
steamer. The hotel is commodious and elegant, with a num- 
ber of charming cottages near by, with all modern conven- 
iences and with service unexcelled. Rates, $3 per day, $17.50 
per week and upwards. McGaw & Winnett, Proprietors. 



Capacity. 

THE OBAN W. A. Mllloy .... 60 

DOYLE'S James Doyle 50 

AMERICAN Jas. MacMIllan.. 40 

LONG'S Wm. Long 20 

LAKE VIEW 20 



Rates per Rates per 
Day. Week. 

82.00-3.00 $10.50 up. 
1.00 7.00 

1.00 5.00 

1.50 7.00 

1.50 7.00 



47 




STOP-OVER 

AT 

Niagara Falls 



will be granted to Eastbotind 

passengers and original purchasers 
of first-class limited, second-class, 
tourist, and round-trip tickets, and 
to holders of party tickets for the 
transportation of other than theatrical and amusement compa- 
nies, issued from points west of and including St. Thomas and 
Hamilton, Ontario, and reading 

Via New York Central & Hudson River and West Shore 
Railroads to Rochester and East thereof ; 

Via Delaware, Lackawanna & Western and Erie Rail- 
roads to Elmira and points East ; 

Via Lehigh Valley to Geneva and points East ; and 

Via Pennsylvania Railroad to Emporium Junction and 
points East. 

Such tickets must be deposited with the ticket agent at 
the station, Niagara Falls, New York, immediately upon 
arrival there, for which he will receipt. They will be sur- 
rendered upon application within thirty minutes of schedule 
time of train upon which the holder is to depart. 

The maximum limit of such stop-over is ten days from 
time of deposit of tickets. 

Stop-over will also be allowed at Niagara Falls on Pan- 
American excursion tickets to Buffalo, on either going or 
returning journey, within limit of ticket, but in no case ex- 
ceeding ten days. 

Baggage may be checked to Niagara Falls, New York, on 
presentation of through limited tickets to points beyond upon 
which stop-over may be granted under the above rules. 

Chicago, July lo, igoi. 



48 




FOR INFORMATION 

In regard to any special point desired, relative to 
Iiat(K I ir Koutes, or for Time Tables, Folders or any 
of the special publications of the Michigan Central, 
address any of the following otticers or agents: 

Passenger Department. 

(). W. RUGGLES, General Passenger and Ticket Agent ....Chicago 

' GEO. E. KING, Assistant General Passenger and Ticket Agent.... Chicago 
WM. H. UXUERWOOD, Gen'l Eastern Pass'r Agent, 299 Main St.... Buffalo 
C. A. CAP.SCADIM, Traveling Passenger Agent, 299 Main Street.... I'.uffalo 

S. H. PAL.MEP, Canadian Passenger Agent _._ St. Thomas 

JOSEPH S. HALL, District Passenger Agent, Central Station Detroit 

CHAS. AV. AMERCER, Trav. Passenger Agent, Central Station Detroit 

L. D. HEl'SXER, Gen'l Western Passenger Agent, 119 Adams St. ..Chicago 
WM. J. SEIXWERTH. Western Passenger Agent, 119 Adams St. ..Chicago 

W. L. WYAXD, Xorthwesrern Passenger Agent, 135 E. Sixth St St. Paul 

H. H. MARLET, Southwestern Passenger Agent, Union Depot, Kansas City 
CARLTOX C. CRAXE, Pacific Coast Agent, 637 Market St... San Francisco 

F. W. BLAXCH, Passenger Agent, 63T Market Street San Francisco 

W. C.SEACHREST, Passenger Agent, Sherlock Building Portland 

AMOS BURR, Passenger Agent, Stimson Block Los Angeles 

Principal City TicRet Agencies. 

WARREX KEELER, 119 Adams Street, opposite Post Office Chicago 

W. G. MATHER, Central Depot, foot of Twelfth St. and Park Row, Chicago 

FRAXK E. SCOTT, Auditorium Hotel Chicago 

H..J. PHELPS, Twenty-second Street Station.... Chicago 

H. M. GROVES, Thirty-ninth Street Staticm _ Chicago 

IRA A. MAXLEY, Hyde Park Station (53d Street).. Chicago 

-T. C. FUXK, Si.Kty-thIrd Street Station .Chicago 

ALFRED 1*. BLOSIER, City Pass'r and Tkt. Agt., 229 Main Street, Buffalo 

E. X. BLOOD, Exchange Street Depot Buffalo 

B. B. DEXISOX, Dist.Pass'r Agt., X.Y.C., 2 Falls St. ...Niagara Falls, X.Y. 

JOHN W. ELLIOTT, Xo. 2 Falls Street Niagara Falls, X.Y. 

JAMES B. MARTIX, X. Y. Cent, and Mich. Cent. Sta., Xiagara Falls, N.Y. 

GEORGE MORTIMER Niagara Falls, Ont. 

JAMES RHIXES. Opera House Block . Detroit 

G. W.F..CH.\MBERLIX, Central Station Detroit 

AVILLI.VM GATES, Boody House ^. .--. Toledo 

J. S. HAWKINS, Union Depot '..... Grand Rapids 

JOHX A. RUSSELL ...Jackson 

JOSEPH WHITIXG, Station foot of Jackson Street Bay City 

FR.VX'K R. :M0SIER, Genesee Avenue Station Saginaw, West Side 

BABY & D.VLE .St. ClairSprings 

R. X". R. WHEELER Battle Creek 

F. C. XOBLE - Kalamazoo 

S. II. P.VLAiER, Canadian Pass'r Agt. ihi charge of tkt. office). St. Thomas 
JOIIX^ PAUL, 395 Richmcmd Street Limdon 




BUFFALO 

ILLUSTRATED 




General Passenger Department 



Michigan ( Centr al 

The Niagara Falls Route 
CHICAGO, 1901 




BUFFALO 



THE CITY OF THE 

PAN-AMERICAN 
EXPOSITION 



(C 





^^^ 
LW 



"% 

'% 







General Passenger Department 

Michigan ( Tento al 

The Niagara Falls Route 



CHICAGO, 1901 



n 



1 



RAND, MCNALLY & COMPANY 
PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS 
CHICAQO 




Lafayette Square. 

BUFFALO 

A GLANCE AND A RETROSPECT, 

In comparison with the simple conditions of the olden time 
the modern American city is not only many-sided but kaleido- 
scopic in its aspects, being as complex in its character as 
the civilization it represents. Standing on the grass-grown 
ramparts of old Fort Erie the city of Buffalo, with its tower- 
ing modern buildings, its tall church spires, huge masses of 
elevators, factory chimneys, and a forest of masts along its lake 
front, is a busy hive of industry, modern, and up to date. On 
the land side of the city are hundreds of acres of railroad 
tracks bearing the burden of a nation's commerce, and along 
its clean, broad, shaded avenues and lovely parks are homes 
of comfort and of luxury. 

Buffalo is modern, for as late as 1789, when the ill-fated 
Irish patriot. Lord Edward Fitzgerald, passed along the 
Niagara frontier, with Brant, on his way to the Mississippi, 
there does not appear to have been a white settler there, 
although some of the white captives taken to Fort Niagara, 
after the bloody Indian raids on Cherry Valley and Wyoming, 
had tilled the corn fields along Buffalo Creek, and William 
Johnson, the first white resident, does not appear to have 



settled there for a year or two later, yet Buffalo has a history 
of remarkable interest, if not brilliancy. It first appears as a 
proposed site for the fortification marked Fort Suppose on the 
map drawn for the French government by Baron LaHontan. 
He ascended the rapids of Niagara in a birch canoe in the 
summer of 1687. It was a commanding frontier outpost in 
the early days, and frequent councils took place there between 
the Indians and the whites, in one of which, in 1793, General 
Benjamin Lincoln and Colonel Timothy Pickering, afterward 
Secretary of War, represented the Government. Robert Morris 
owned this land at one time, and it passed from him in 1792-3 

to the Holland Land 

Company, whose 

first agent, 




.vs**- Joseph Ellicott, 
Old Fort Porter. ' was really the 

founder of the great city. He it was 
who laid out the city a little less than a century ago on a 
similar plan to that of Washington, that of a radial system of 
broad avenues combined with a number of distinct rectangular 
systems. 

The first gun of the war of 18 12 is said to have been fired 
August 13th from the river battery at Black Rock, just below 
Buffalo and now a part of the city, and in October Lieutenant 
Elliott of the navy began his distinguished career by cutting 
out from under the guns of Fort Erie two vessels, one of 
which the British had taken at the surrender of Detroit. This 
4 



resulted in the capture of fifty-eight men and the liberation of 
twenty-seven American prisoners. One of these vessels after- 
ward served under Perry in the battle of Lake Erie. The 
Niagara frontier played a very important part in the war of 
1812, though the gallant Americans were not always gloriously 
successful. In July, 1813, the British Colonel Bisshopp was 
killed in an unsuccessful attempt to capture Buffalo, and was 
buried down at Lundy's Lane, near Niagara Falls, where a 
hot battle was fought afterward. It may be noted here that 
the Buffalonians were always on friendly terms with the 
Indians, and that in the defense of the city General Porter was 
effectively assisted by our Seneca allies. There are still three 
Iroquois reservations within fifty miles of Buffalo, and one of 
the chief monuments of the city is a statue of the great chief 
Red Jacket in Forest Lawn Cemetery. 

Buffalo was finally captured by the British in 1813 and the 
village burned ; but it was rapidly rebuilt, and the next July 
the Americans crossed the river, captured Fort Erie, marched 
down the river, and won the battle of Chippewa, and fought the 
desperate engagement of 
Lundy's Lane, where 
the victory was 




Fort PorteJ 




claimed by both sides. The 
British besieged Fort Erie, 
but their attacks were re- 
pulsed and the siege finally 
raised. It was blown up 
when the Americans aban- 
doned it, and its shattered 
walls to-day form the most 
interesting historical relic 
near the city. 

The Erie Canal was com- 
pleted in 1825, when the 
population of Buffalo num- 
bered 2,600. With this and 
the rapid development of 
the West began the tide of 
prosperity that has marked 
the city's subsequent history. 
The first railroad came in 
1842, and for many years 
after the Michigan Central 
Railroad purchased and 
Red Jacket Monument. completed its line from De- 

troit through the State of Michigan, connection was made with 
it by steamers from Buffalo, as well as by stagecoaches from 
Canada, the time being reduced in 1848 to two days and a half, 
when, as the advertisements enthusiastically claimed, " in eight 
days passengers can go the whole distance from Chicago to New 
York." The population of Buffalo had grown to 30,000 in 
1845, while that of Chicago was but 12,088. At the close of 
the century Buffalo had reached the eighth place in the list of 
the American cities, with a population of 352,387, and by the 
great Pan-American Exposition is to-day the cynosure of the 
eyes of the world. 

Space permits but a rapid glance at her great natural 

advantages and the results she has reached by making wise 

use of them. At the terminus of deep-water navigation on 

the lakes, Buffalo quickly transfers the cargoes of the grain- 

6 



laden steamer to the huge bins of her elevators, and, perhaps, 
while transferring it to canal boat or railroad cars the vessel is 
reloading with anthracite for her return voyage. She is the 
railroad center of more millions of people than any other city 
on the continent. Her grain receipts last year by lake were 
215,000,000 bushels. 

Trollope was greatly interested in the incessant stream of 
the moving grain, and gigantic elevators are conspicuous 
in any view of the city. Joseph Dart built the first one in 
1842, when it was predicted that "Irishmen's backs were, 
after all, the cheapest elevators." Joseph Dart's elevator, 
with a capacity of fifty-five thousand bushels and the power of 
raising a thousand bushels an hour, has been succeeded by 




Buffalo Harbor. 

more than one of a capacity of over a million bushels elevating 
twenty thousand bushels an hour. 

Yet great as is Buffalo as the outlet of the lakes and the 
terminus of the Erie Canal, her chief greatness and power 
to-day comes from the tribute of the railroad systems. As Miss 
Welch wrote : ' * To win the heart of this queen city to-day 
you must court her in the role of a railway king." " No city, 
save one, owes so much to railroads as does Buffalo. Her 
terminal facilities are unequaled, and her transfer yards at 
East Buffalo are the largest in the world, with the outlying 
country encompassed for miles about by a network of tracks, 
approaching closer and closer as they near the city, and 
extending around the harbor side to pour their freight of coal, 
salt, and petroleum into the lake vessels in return for a cargo 
7 




Ei'ie County Savings Batik. 



of grain, flour, lumber, iron, and copper ore. Commercial 
Buff'alo is like a portly and self-satisfied spider, supreme in 
the center of her web." 

Without the duplication of a rod some ten thousand miles 
of travel are possible on the lines centering at Buffalo alone, 
as the starting point or terminus of twenty different railway 
lines. Chief among these is, of course, the great four-track 
New York Central, "America's Greatest Railroad," away to the 
east to Albany, New York, and Boston, with branches to the 
St. Lawrence, through the Adirondack Mountains, and to 
many other rich and picturesque regions north and south of 
and beyond the main line. Westward runs the Michigan 
Central, "The Niagara Falls Route," whose magnificently 
equipped and admirably operated trains cross the great gorge 
of Niagara on the famous steel cantalever bridge, passing 
directly by and in full view of the great cataract, stopping its 
trains five minutes at Falls View, that greatest of all view points, 
and then speeding away westward over the level stretches 
of Ontario to Detroit, and through fertile and prosperous 



Michigan to Chicago, where it connects with all the great 
western, northwestern, and southwestern lines. You may go 
east or west, but there is not a point of any importance on the 
surface of the round earth to which you can not buy a through 
ticket over the Central Lines from Buffalo. Within the 
corporate limits of the city itself a Buffalonian can enjoy a 
railroad journey greater in length than a trip to New 
York. 

Miss Welch in her graphic sketch justly says that " were 
Buffalo not a railway center, she would be known as a coal 
depot. Take away both these interests, and she would be 
reputed one of the leading live-stock markets of the country. 
Without even this, she would yet be famed on both sides of 
the Atlantic Ocean for the greatest engineering feat of modern 
times — the cantalever bridge of the Michigan Central Railroad 
which spans the gorge of the Niagara, built in 1883 at the 
Central Bridge Works, now the Union Bridge Company, of 
Buffalo. Aside from these larger and wider-known estab- 
lishments, there 
are over two thou- 
sand manufacto- 
ries, numbering 
among the more 



important car 
wheels, stoves 
and engines, boots 
and shoes, oil re- 
fineries, malt- 
houses, breweries 
and distilleries, 
flouring mills, 
chemical works, 
ship yards, agri- 
cultural imple- 
ments, and minor 
industries without 
number. The 
mail of one large 




Bank of Buffalo, 




Cliippeiva Market. 

establishment last year was greater in amount than the entire 
receipts of the post office in 1872. 

"While no one would dare to advance a claim for Buffalo 
in the months of March and April, she has a thousand charms 
as a summer home. With a turn of the faucet one may drink 
of or plunge in the cool waters of the upper lakes. The fruit 
and vegetables on the breakfast table come fresh and crisp 
each morning from the market gardens about the city. The 
fish were caught before daylight from the depths of Niagara, 
and the beefsteak selected from the herds waiting transporta- 
tion at the East Buffalo stock yards, where larger moneyed 
transactions on a cash basis take place daily than in any other 
part of the city. The roses and the lilies which brighten the 
morning meal were plucked in the door yard. If the resident 
be a man of some leisure and a lover of horseflesh, he lakes an 
early morning turn behind his flyer around the Park. 

" The old resident, who has somewhat thrown off the cares 

of active business, visits his office summer mornings to read 

his letters and give directions to his clerks, then steps aboard 

his steam yacht with a party of friends. After a good haul of 

10 



black bass on the river, he drops anchor at Falconwood to 
join his neighbors and their wives, or, perhaps, members of 
his own family, whom the club boat has brought down earlier 
in the day, at a six o'clock dinner. The yachts are headed 
up stream just at the twilight hour, when the outlines of the 
Canada shore, across which tall poplar trees throw their long 
shadows, are fading into indistinctness, and make their dock' 
at the famous Fort Erie Ferry, where coaches are waiting to 
take summer idlers home by way of the park boulevards. 

" This sketch of summer life would be incomplete without 
the suggestion that Lake Erie's zephyrs have so tempered the 
midsummer atmosphere that a blanket tends to promote the 
luxurious slumbers which follow the evening hours spent in 
the piazza with one's neighbors. The popularity of this form 
of pleasuring was voiced by the Buffalonian who said ' When I 
build, I shall build a veranda, with possibly a house attached,' 

" Buffalo now ranks among the gayest and most hospitable 
cities in America. Her commercial growth has been traced. 
It would be no less interesting to note how this has reacted 
on private habits. Since her earliest years she has been a 
community of great friendliness and hospitality, of compara- 
tive simplicity in social forms, and of a singularly democratic 
spirit." 



Boat House in the Park. 

11 




The people of Buffalo have prepared in the most ample 
way to entertain millions of guests during the Pan-American 
Exposition this season. They point to their abundant facilities i 
for the accommodation of great crowds with no little pride^ 









The electric car service has been ex- 


1 


K*"" 


tended in every necessary way, hun- 
dreds of new buildings have been 




f. 


\i9 


'1 


^l| 


Itf 


5! 


^ 


■ 



T/ie Circle and First Presbyterian Church. 
12 



erected for the special purpose of accommodating visitors, some 
fine hotels have been erected having large capacity, apartment 
houses have, for the time being, been transformed into hotels, 
restaurants are everywhere in abundance, and reasonable 
rates are advertised by nearly everyone who has entered into 
the business of caring for the Exposition traffic. In response 
to a call from Mayor Diehl, the householders throughout the 
city have prepared to receive into their homes the visitors from 
other States and cities. 

Within a few years the general appearance of the city has 
been vastly improved. Owing to the betterment of the system 




Dehncare Avenue. 

of transportation, and the extension of lines in many directions, 
the suburbs have grown rapidly. The new homes are built 
according to advanced ideas and equipped with the latest of 
modern conveniences. Many new churches have been erected, 
until now the city has nearly two hundred houses of worship 
to show the healthful condition of her religious life. 

The park system has also been considerably enlarged, until 
now the city is almost encircled, from the lake shore on the 
north to the lake shore on the south, with a system of beauti- 
ful parks and drives. With more than two hundred and 
13 



.J^^^ 






^'^. 



twenty - five 
miles of as- 
phalt pave- 
ment the 
city is es- 
pecially at- 
tractive to 
wheelmen 
and automo- 
bilists. 

Within re- 
cent years 
Buffalo has 
added very 
materially to 
her indus- 
trial impor- 
tance. A 
great steel 
industry is 
springing up 
jusi uuihielc of her southern boundary, and 
throughout the city manufactories of various 
degrees of importance have come into existence. The industrial 
activity of Buffalo has been greatly stimulated by the develop- 
ment of power at Niagara Falls, This is transmitted to Buffalo 
by means of costly electric cable lines, and distributed through- 
out the city. The entire street railway system of Buffalo and the 
e lectric lighting 
system are oper- 
ated by power 
from Niagara, 
while large motors 
driven by the same 
force operate many 
of the manufac- 
turing institutions 
of the city. 

Twentieth Century Club, 



Bridge in 
Delaivare Park. 





The Grosveiior Library. 

FACTS IN BRIEF ABOUT BUFFALO. 

Population (census 1900), 352,387- 

Area of city, 42.89 square miles. 

Acreage of city, 25, 343 >^. 

Local tax rate, $18.2186 on valuation of $1,000. 

Death rate, 12.25 per thousand. 

Railroads, 28, with 250 passenger trains daily, nearly 700 
miles of trackage within the city limits. 

Street railways, 192 miles, more under con-truction. 

Public schools, 64, over 100 other schools, colleges 
(including University of Buffalo), etc. 

Parks, 1,065 acres, forming 7 parks, 19 miles of park drive- 
ways, and numerous minor squares, circles, etc. 

Paved streets, 340 miles, of which 229 miles is of asphalt, 
giving Buffalo more miles of asphalt than any city in the world. 

Churches, 187. 

Hospitals and Infirmaries, 26. 

Banks, 24. 

Public Library, 150,000 books. 

Grosvenor (reference) Library, 50,000 books. 

Library of BufTalo Historical Society has 25,000 volumes. 

Water Works, daily pumping capacity, 187,000,000 gallons, 
unlimited pure water supply. 

15 



Natural Gas, piped from Canada and Northern Pennsylvania. 

Police Department, 783 men. 

Fire Department, 490 men. 

Customs receipts, $678,684,98 in igoo. 

Elevators, 41, with capacity for 22,995,000 bushels. 

Grain receipts, by lake, in 1900, were 214,971,364 bushels. 

Coal Trestle, largest in the world, the Lackawanna, nearly 
one mile long. 

Coal receipts, by rail, during 1899, 3,055,952 tons. 

Coal shipments, by lake, 1900, 1,826,091 tons. 

Lumber Trade, Buffalo, with the adjacent Tonawanda, 
forms the second largest lumber market in the w^orld. 

Live Slock, of horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, about 
9,000,000 are handled yearly. 

Manufactories, 3,500, with 100,000 operatives. 

Breakwater, longest in the world. It will be four miles 
long when completed. 

Vessels arrived in 1900, 4,945; tonnage, 5,341,128. 

Vessels cleared during 1900, 5,028; tonnage, 5,360,094. 

Electric Power, generated at Niagara Falls, transmitted to 
Buffalo in practically unlimited quantities. 

Newspapers and periodicals, 80, of which 11 are daily 
newspapers. 




Lafayette Squarf 




New York State Hospital. 



PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 

Delaware Park — 362 acres, of which 133 acres are in- 
corporated in Pan-American Exposition site ; Elmwood 
Avenue Cars. 

Zoological Gardens, Delaware Park — Zoo Cars, Main 
Street Line. 

Fort Porter and The Front — Niagara Street Cars to 
Porter Avenue. 

South Park — 155 acres, fine botanical display; Bailey 
Avenue Cars. 

Cazenovia Park — 76 acres; Seneca Street Cars. 

Humboldt Park — 56 acres; Best Street Cars. 

Forest Lawn Cemetery — Red Jacket Monument; Forest 
Avenue Cars. 

Crystal Beach — North Shore Lake Erie, ten miles from 
Buffalo ; frequent daily trips by steamer. 

WooDLAWN Beach — South Shore of Lake Erie, six miles 
from Buffalo; reached by steamboat and trolley line. 

INSTITUTIONS AND BUILDINGS, ETC. 
City and County Hall — Corner Franklin and W. Eagle 

streets. 
Buffalo Library, Art Gallery, and Historical Society 

— Washington Street and Broadway. 
Grosvenor Library — Corner Edward and FrankUn streets. 
Armory, 74th Regiment — Covers entire square, cost $500,000 

exclusive of site ; Niagara Street Cars. 
Masonic Temple — 41 Niagara Street. 
17 



New Post Office — Covers entire square, bounded by EUi- 
cott, Swan, Oak, and North Division streets. Estimated 
cost of site and building, $2,000,000. 

Ellicott Square — Office building, covers entire square, 
fronting on Main Street ; cost, site and building, 
$3,500,000. 

Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument — Lafayette Square, 
Main Street. 

Woman's Educational and Industrial Union — Niagara 
Square. 

University of Buffalo — High Street, near Main; Main 
Street Cars. 

Buffalo State Hospital — Forest Avenue; Elmvvood Ave- 
nue Cars. 

Board of Trade (Merchants' Exchange) — Corner Seneca 
and Pearl streets. 

THEATRES. 

The Star — Mohawk and Pearl streets. 

The Teck — Main and Edward streets. 

The Lyceum — Washington Street, near Broadway. 

Shea's Garden Theatre — Pearl, near Niagara Street. 

Court Street Theatre — Court Street, near Pearl. 

Wonderland — Main, near Seneca Street. 



I 




..\ 




*Kf.: 



•'«^-'?iS^ 







'4- fiii „ „ 



United states Government Building. 
18 



HOTELS OF BUFFALO. 



'15 



'■m 



.r.r>^>' 



m 









,w-.. 



^T 



«<' 



IROQUOIS HOTEL, 

Main Street, corner of Eagle. Cafe and restaurant. Thor- 
oughly first class in every particular. Recently enlarged and 
refurnished in best manner. Accommodates 700 guests. 
Rates on application, European plan. Woolley & Gerrans, 
Proprietors. 




NIAGARA HOTEL, 
Located in a beautiful part of the residential district near river, 
and with wooded parks about. Has 225 rooms, many with 
baths and beautiful views. European plan, $2 and upwards. 
Wm. F. Ingold, Manager. 

19 



-'■5, 


'•§i< / 


m\ ; .-,/ 



HOTEL BROEZEL, 

Corner Seneca and Wells streets. One of the most comfort- 
able hotels in Buffalo, and very convenient to railroad station 

and electric cars; 
thoroughly up to date. 
150 rooms. Rates, 
$3 to $5 per day; $21 
per week. John E. 
Boldt, Proprietor. 

HOTEL COLUMBIA, 
On Seneca Street, 
near Wells, two 
blocks from Central 
Station, and in busi- 
ness center of city. 
It has about 300 
rooms, with everv 
provision for safety 
and convenience, 
lestaurant, cafe, 
baths, etc., including 
a convention hall. 
Ivates, $1 to $2.50, 
Eu ropean plan . 
M. C. Smedley, 
Manager. 





THE QENESEE HOTEL, 

Corner of Main and West Genesee streets. Has 150 rooms, and 
can accommodate 400 guests. Rates, $1.50 and upwards, Euro- 
pean; $3 and upwards, American. J. E. Murphy, Proprietor. 




THE TIFFT HOUSE, 
No. 465 Main Street, attracts patronage of the best class, com- 
mercial travelers, and tourists. Accommodates 400. Rates, $2.50 
and upwards. European plan. John Hood & Co., Proprietors. 

21 




THE BUCKINGHAM, 

Formerly one of the handsomest apartment houses, is now the 
principal building in the F. B. Robins Pan-American Exposi- 
tion Hotel System. This system, which will be handled from 
the offices at 54 and 55 Erie County Bank Building, embraces 
The Buckingham, The Marlborough, The Lincoln, and thirty 
Elmwood Avenue district residences. Total accommodations, 
640 rooms. Rates from $2. a day up, European. F. B. Robins, 
Manager. 



A 



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"m-^ 



A 




.^fT^ 



'^^^fni'^^'^^ 



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STATLER'S PAN-AMERICAN HOTEL 
Is on Elmwood Avenue, one block from main entrance to Ex- 
position, covered with staff, and containing 2,100 rooms, all 
well lighted and ventilated. Rates, $2 to $5 per day, American 
plan, but not including luncheon. E. M. Statler, Proprietor. 
22 









^^1^*^ 



..^ 



THE BERKELEY, 

On Johnson Park, in resident portion of city. Fireproof. 
Adjacent to shopping district and theaters. All rooms with 
bath. Rates, $2 and upwards. J. S. Bliss, Manager. 



H'^l|- 



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THE KENILWORTH, 

Elmwood Avenue, corner of Anderson Place?. Has 150 rooms, 
Palm Roof Garden, with extensive view, twenty baths, and all 
modern conveniences. Accommodates 400. Electric cars 
fifteen minutes from station, five minu'es from Exposition. 
$2 and upwards, European plan. Address, The Kenilworth, 
23 




THE CASTLE INN, 
(Formerly Hotel Fillmore) 

On Niagara Square and Delaware Avenue, charming in its 

architecture and ap- 
pointments, and with 
spacious verandas. 
Tally-ho will leave daily 
at lo A. M. for the Ex- 
position, via Delaware 
Avenue and the Front. 
Rooms en suite and with 
bath. Capacity, 250 
guests. Exposition rates, 
$3 to $5 . American plan 
only. Special rates for 
families, conventions, 
etc. C. N. Burtis, Pro- 
prietor. 




HOTEL DETROIT, 

Corner of Niagara and 
Pearl streets, within ten 
minutes' walk of all sta- 
tions. Excellent cuisine. 
All modern convenien- 
ces. Accommodates 400. 
$1.50 (with bath, $2) 
and upwards. European 
plan. J. C. Griffin, 

Proprietor. 



I 




on the European plan, from $2 upwards. 
Proprietor. 



THE LENOX. 
One of the most 
exclusive and 
sumptuous hotels 
in the Pan-Amer- 
ican city. It is lo- 
cated in the heart 
of the aristocratic 
residence section in 
North Street, near 
Delaware Avenue. 
Has 250 rooms, a 
magnificent roof 
garden, and unsur- 
passed cuisine. 
Rates, exclusively 
George Duchscherer, 




PARK HOTEL, 

Delaware Avenue, corner of Amhurst Street. A new build- 
ing opposite entrance to the Exposition Grounds, claimed to 
be fireproof and with all modern conveniences. Automobiles 
will connect with principal trains. Convention hall, dining 
rooms, and restaurant attached. Rates, $1 and upwards, 
European plan. F. E. Schenck, Manager. 
25 







ii'|^i^^;^~^^i !!^« 'z! - 'l:f 3# ^!^^ 



HOTEL GIBBS, 

1005-21 Elmwood Avenue, five minutes' walk from main 
entrance to the Exposition. A first-class family hotel, with all 
modern improvements. Caf6 on ground floor. Accommodates 
1,000. $1 and upwards, European. John W. Gibbs, Proprietor. 

ADDITIONAL HOTELS. 

Location. Capacity. ^ Cayr"" 

MANSION HOUSE, Main & Exchange Sts.-C. R. Eldridge. 350 (a)$2.50 

THE TRUBEE, 414 Delaware Avenue ) Wnrrv Phlllins 120 fal 3 00 ud 

THE TRUBEE ANNEX, 357 Delaware Av. J ^^^^^ i-nmips. i^u (a; rf.uu up 

THE JOHNSON, 284 Delaware Avenue— J. W. Wagner 250 1 [g] ^"^q !! 

THE VICTORIA HOTEL, Niagara & Eagle Sts.— E.J. Smith 500 (e) 1.00 " 

THE DETROIT, 44 Niagara Street-J. C. Griffin (a) 2.50 up 

WOMAN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION LODGE, 266-270 

GroteStreet (near Exposition) -.. (e)ltol.50 

CHAPIN PLACE HOUSE, cor. Delaware Av. & Chapin PL— 

Dr. B. F. Rogers 75 (e) 1.00 up 

THE RALEIGH, 352 Franklin Street-B. H. Phillips 250 (e) 1.50 " 

HOTEL ZENOBIA, 16-18 Prospect Avenue— D. F. Boechat. 100 (e) 1.00 " 
THE ROANOKE, 156 AV. Chippewa Streets 1 (e) 2.00 ;| 

THE ABERDEEN, cor. Jersey & W. Avs. The Roanoke j }|j Ho " 

Hotel I (A o'fM) " 

THE ALBEMARLE, cor. Jersey&W. Avs. Company, ] '< o'm " 

! Jno. S. Rowe, ! 900 a 250 '• 
THE WINONA, 344 West Avenue f Manager, '^^"^ ^'^' --- 

156 West 
THE PIERMONT, 59 Whitney Place ] Chippewa 

Street. 



(e) 2.00 

(e) 1.50 

(a) 2.50 

(, (e) 2.00 



ASHLAND COLONIAL, 109 Ashland Ave. j j "; (a) 2.50 

STAFFORD HOUSE, Wash'gton & Carroll Sts.— J. Warner. 250 (a) 2.00 
ARLINGTON HOTEL, opposite M. C. Depot-Jas. McKay.. 150 (a) 2.00 
THE CHELTENHAM, Franklin St., near Chippewa— C. J. 

Spaulding 200 (a) 3.00 up 

NEW CONTINENTAL, Exch. & Mich. Sts.— M. A. Cad well. 200 (a) 2.00 
NEWGRUENER,Wa8hington&Huron—Chas. H.Johnson. 150 1 [g] l'^ 

VENDOME, Court St. near Pearl-M. J. McGraw 150 (a) 2.50 

TREMONT HOUSE, Seneca «& Wash'gton St s.— H.J.Tucker. 135 (a) 1.25 



Location. Capacity. ^^*5^P^'' 

NEW NATIONAL HOTEL, Exchange & Ellicott Streets— 

W.J. Swallow. _... 200 (a) 2.00 

ORLEANS, Main and Chippewa— E. H. Sanford 100 (a) 2.00 up 

RIENZI HOTEL, Main Street, nearNiagara-F. J. Garvin.. 200 (e) .50 up 

CITY HOTEL, Exchange & Michigan Sts.— Jno. Leyden... 150 (a) 2.00 

FILLMORE HOUSE, Michigan & Carroll Sts.-Sully Bros.. 100 (a) 1.25 

CARLTON HOTEL, Exch. & Wash'gton Sts.— J. A. Cairns. 100 (a) 1.50 

RUSSELL HOUSE, Swan St.,near Washington-,!. M. Klein. 100 (a) 1.50 

ROBINSON HOUSE, Eagle and Washington— H. Asmus.... 100 (a) 1.25 

BARNES HOTEL, Pearl St., near Mohawk-E. B. Barnes. . . 50 (a) 1.25 

McLEOD'S HOTEL, opposite M. C. Depot— D. IMcLeod.... 50 (e) 100 

McKAT'SHOTEL, Eagle St., nr.Washg'ton—Jas. McKay.. 40 (e) .75 up 

SOUTHERNHOTEL, Seneca & Mich. Sts.-F.M. Gregg... 75 (a) 1.25 

CRANDALL HOUSE, William Street-A.B.Crandall 75 (a) 1.50 

MOELLER HOUSE, Main and Perry Sts.-Robt. Moeller. . . 100 (a) 1.25 
IRVINGTON HOTEL, 351 Wash'gton St.— Massey&Hcopes 100 I [|,^ J-^^ " 

THE FORNES, Pearl and Court Sts.— W. L. Thompson.... 200 (e) 1,50 " 

THENORTHLAND,.383-387Ellicott St.— H.Kirchner&Co. 300 (e) 1.50 " 

THE ALLEN, 225-227 Allen St.-J.N.Bame.... 150 (e) 1.50 " 

EPWORTH COTTAGE, 322 Dearborn St (e) 1.00 up 




A J^ieiu in Forest Lawn. 



27 




Ellicott. 



23 







Central Station, Exchange Street. 



SUGGESTIONS TO PAN-AMERICAN VISITORS. 

Buffalo is a very considerable city with a population of 
352,387, and it has a considerably larger hotel accommodation 
in proportion to population than most cities. It is, in all 
respects, a very hospitable city. Visitors, however, should 
recollect that forty millions of people live within a radius of 
five hundred miles of Buffalo, and while Buffalo expects to 
comfortably and satisfactorily take care of the crowds that 
will visit the Pan-American Exposition, a prudent man will 
make his arrangements and engage his accommodations in 
advance. 

To aid the Pan-American visitor we have prepared the fol- 
lowing list of hotels, not only in Buffalo but at Niagara Falls, 
only twenty-two miles distant, giving briefly as full informa- 
tion as practicable. In addition to this, however, both Buffalo 
and Niagara Falls will open to the visitor large numbers of 
boarding-houses and of private houses, for the hospitality of 
the citizens will be unstinted, to sustain the reputation and 
good fame of their cities. These boarding-houses and private 



residences are not yet listed, and the lists will probably not 
be completed much before the opening of the Exposition. 

All this information will be in the possession of the Bureau 
of Information of the Pan-American Exposition, officers of 
which will spare no pains for the accommodation of visitors 
and to prevent any fraud and imposition. If, therefore, you 
do not write direct to any of the hotels mentioned in the 
following list, write to Air. W. D. Thayer, Superintendent 
Bureau of Info7-?nation, 213 Ellicott Square^ Buffalo, N. V., 




ElUcott Square. 

stating clearly just what you want and what limitations that 
you wish to put upon price, and the matter will receive prompt 
attention. 

Or you can send such communication to Mr. W. H. 
Underwood, General Eastern Passenger Agent of the Michigan 
Central, No. 299 Main Street, Buffalo, and he will take the 
matter up promptly with the proper parties . 

Having received and made arrangements for your tempo- 
rary residence at Buffalo or Niagara Falls during the Exposition, 
and purchased your ticket over the MICHIGAN CENTRAL, 
" The Niagara Falls Route," and having checked your baggage 
through to Buffalo or Niagara Falls, you will avoid possible 
delay and annoyance by taking, on your arrival, one of the 
30 



transfer carriages of the C. W. Miller Company, whose agents 
will meet you on the train before arrival, and to whom you can 
deliver your checks for the transportation 
of your baggage at reasonable and duly 
authorized rates. 

All baggage should be plainly marked 
with the name of the owner, to which it 
is well to add the address. During the 
Columbian Exposition at Chicago the 
arrivals of baggage were so stupendous in 
number and quantity that the large 
trained baggage force of the railroads was 
able only with great difficulty and untiring 
work to prevent serious delays and losses 
of baggage. Although every facility will 
be afforded by the transportation com- 
panies at Buffalo, the mass of baggage will be so great that 
passengers should themselves use these simple precautions in 
their own behalf and reduce their baggage to as small an 
amount as practicable. 

While in Buffalo any necessary information upon almost 
every subject connected with the Exposition and the transpor- 
tation lines can be obtained freely upon inquiry of the Bureaus 




N^' 








Fark Bridge and Waterway. 



31 



of Information established by the Exposition Company and the 
transportation companies upon the Exposition grounds and at 
No. 213 EUicott Square in the business center of the city. 

The Michigan Central ticket office at No. 299 Main Street 
(EUicott Square) will also be a Bureau of Information where 
all possible information will be cheerfully given and the pas- 
sengers aided in every practicable way. 

Special and detailed information in regard to the Pan- 
American Exposition and in regard to Buffalo and Niagara 
Falls can be obtained from any ticket agent of the Michigan 
Central and connecting hues, and from any of the following 
agents of the Passenger Department : 

WM. H. UNDERWOOD, General Eastern Passenger Agent, 299 Main St.. . .BUFFALO 

C. A. CARSCADIN, Traveling Passenger Agent, 299 Main Street BUFFALO 

S. H. PALMER, Canadian Passenger Agent ST. THOMAS 

JOSEPH S. HALL, District Passenger Agent, Central Station DETROIT 

CHAS. W. MERCER, Traveling Passenger Agent, Central Station DETROIT 

L. D. HEUSNER, General Western Passenger Agent, 119 Adams Street CHICAGO 

WM J. SEINWERTH, Western Passenger Agent, 119 Adams Street CHICAGO 

W. L. W YAND, Northwestern Passenger Agent, 135 E. Sixth Street . . St. Paul, Minn. 
H.H. MARLEY, Southwestern Passenger Agent, Union Depot . . .KANSAS CiTY, Mo. 
CARLTON C. CRANE, Pacific Coast Agent, 637 Market Street .. San FRANCISCO, Cal. 

W C SEACHREST, Passenger Agent, Sherlock Building Portland, Ore. 

AMOS BURR, Passenger Agent, Stimson Block Los ANGELES, Cal. 

For illustrated Souvenir containing much valuable and 
necessary information, beautifully illustrated, address, with four 
cents postage, Mr. O. W. Ruggles, General Passenger and 
Ticket Agent Michigan Central Railroad, Chicago. 




FEB 26 1902 



